DAY 87 - MUMBAI, INDIA - APRIL 24, 2010 (TAJ MAHAL)

ALTHOUGH THE SHIP WAS NOT SCHEDULED TO DOCK UNTIL 7:00 AM, OUR DAY STARTED AT 4:45. THE ADVENTURE FOR TODAY IS AN EXCURSION TO THE TAJ MAHAL IN AGRA, INDIA, OVER 1000 MILES AWAY. ALSO ON THE AGENDA ARE VISITS TO FORT AGRA AND THE MAHAL SHERATON HOTEL FOR TEA AND LUNCH. WE CAN’T ACCOMPLISH ANY OF THESE TREASURES UNTIL WE HAVE BREAKFAST AND CLEAR IMMIGRATION. WHEN THE IMMIGRATION AUTHORITIES GIVE CLEARANCE TO THE SHIP WE ARE FREE TO LEAVE.

CLEARANCE CAME AT 7:30 AND WE WERE ON OUR BUS, ALONG WITH THE OTHER FOUR BUSES, TO THE MUMBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT. WE RECEIVED OUR BOARDING PASS JUST BEFORE ARRIVING IN THE PARKING LOT OUTSIDE THE AIRLINE TERMINAL. OUR GUIDE LED US TO THE FRONT DOOR, WHICH WAS GUARDED BY MILITARY MEN ARMED WITH AK47 MACHINE GUNS. MAKING OUR WAY INTO THE TERMINAL WE WERE MET BY AN AIRLINE EMPLOYEE WHO SHOWED US TOWARD THE SECURITY LINE. WE NEVER SAW OUR GUIDE AGAIN AND EVERYTHING WENT SOUTH FROM THAT POINT FORWARD.

THE SECURITY PROCESS WAS LIKE NO OTHER WE HAVE EVER ENCOUNTERED. THE LADIES LED IN ONE DIRECTION AND THE GENTS IN ANOTHER. EVENTUALLY WE WERE REUNITED ON THE GATE SIDE OF SECURITY. UNFORTUNATELY OUR BOARDING PASSES DIDN’T INDICATE THE GATE AND IT WAS ONLY WITH THE HELP OF A FEW AIRPORT EMPLOYEES WE MADE IT TO THE GATE.

THE FLIGHT WAS A CHARTER AND THEREFORE WAS NOT LISTED ON ANY OF THE MONITORS. NONE OF THESE LITTLE OBSTACLES INSTILLED ANY CONFIDENCE THAT A PLANE WAS IN FACT WAITING FOR US. MANY IN OUR GROUP HAD NOT COMPLETED THE SECURITY PROCESS BUT THOSE THAT HAD WERE INSTRUCTED TO BOARD THE SHUTTLE THAT WOULD TAKE US TO THE PLANE. THERE ARE NO JETWAYS IN THIS MUMBAI TERMINAL.

THE RIDE TO THE PLANE WAS SHORT, WE EXITED THE BUS AND AFTER THE AIRLINE EMPLOYEE REMOVED HER PORTION OF THE BOARDING PASS SEVERAL PASSENGERS BEGAN THE LONG CLIMB UP THE STEPS TO THE PLANE. ABOUT TWENTY PEOPLE HAD ENTERED THE PLANE. WE WERE THE NEXT IN LINE WHEN A MAN ALL WIRED FOR SOUND INFORMED US THE REMAINDER OF THOSE STILL WAITING TO BOARD WERE TO GET BACK ON THE BUS. THOSE ALREADY ON THE PALNE REJOINED US ON THE BUS. WE FOUND OUT FROM ONE OF THOSE WHO HAD ALREADY BEEN ON THE PLANE THAT THE PILOT HAD COME FROM THE COCKPIT AND COMMANDED THE FLIGHT ATTENDANT TO “GET THE PEOPLE OFF THE PLANE.”


WITH THE BUS AGAIN FULL, WE PULLED AWAY FROM THE PLANE FOR AN UNKNOWN DESTINATION. WE DROVE PASS A HALF DOZEN PLANES AND PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE AS IF THE DRIVER WAS WAITING FOR FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS. WHAT SEEMED LIKE AN HOUR LATER, IN REALITY ONLY ABOUT TEN MINUTES HAD PASSED, THE BUS WAS MOVING TOWARD THE TERMINAL WE EXITED IN ORDER TO BOARD THE BUS. IT WAS NOT TO BE HOWEVER AS WE DROVE BY THE DOOR, CIRCLED THE ROUND-ABOUT AS WE HEADED FOR THE FAR END OF THE AIRPORT.

AT THE END OF THE PATH THE DRIVER MADE A U-TURN AND PROCEEDED UP THE RAMP STOPPING IN FRONT OF THE “ARRIVALS TERMINAL.” THE DOORS OPEN AND NOBODY MOVED EVEN THOUGH THE DRIVER WAS MOTIONING TO EXIT. SEVERAL PEOPLE WEARING AIRPORT IDENTIFICATION SIGNALED FOR US TO GET OFF THE BUS BUT WE REFUSED. FINALLY ONE OF THEM APPROACHED THE BUS CHEERFULLY INFORMING US WE HAD REACHED THE ARRIVES TERMINAL AND OUR LUGGAGE WOULD ARRIVE SHORTLY.

AS CALMLY, YET AS LOUD AS WE COULD, SEVERAL OF US INFORMED HER WE WERE TRYING TO DEPART NOT ARRIVE AND WHAT IN THE HELL WAS GOING ON. LOOKING PUZZLED SHE SAID SHE WOULD RETURN WITH AN ANSWER AND TO STAY PUT. WITHIN A MINUTE SHE RETURNED WITH A YOUNG MAN AND HE INSTRUCTED US TO FOLLOW HIM INTO THE BUILDING AND HE WOULD INFORM US OF THE PROBLEM.

ONCE ASSEMBLED INSIDE THE TERMINAL AND BEFORE HE COULD GET OUT A WORD WE PELTED HIM WITH QUESTIONS, INCLUDING WHERE WERE THE OTHER HUNDRED FIFTY MEMBERS OF OUR GROUP. “THERE IS A MECHANICAL PROBLEM WITH THE AIRCRAFT. PLEASE FOLLOW ME, YOU ALL MUST BE RE-TICKETED AND RETURN TO THE WAITING AREA.”

WHAT HE FAILED TO SAY WAS WE ALSO HAD TO PASS THROUGH THE SECURITY SCREENING ALL OVER AGAIN. NOT WANTING ANYONE TO FEEL LOST, OR GET LOST, I TOOK CHARGE AND HAD THE GROUP STAY TOGETHER UNTIL EVERYONE WAS RE-TICKETED. ONCE THROUGH SECURITY WE REJOINED THE GROUP AND BEGAN THE TEST OF ENDURANCE.

SOMEWHERE ALONG THE LINE A REPRESENTATIVE OF THE TOUR AGENCY MIRACULOUSLY APPEARED AND BEGAN CONVERSING WITH THE GATE ATTENDANTS IN A LOUD AND UNRULY MANNER. IT WAS ALL DONE IN HINDI AND NONE OF US COULD UNDERSTAND A WORD. FOR ALL WE KNOW, HE COULD HAVE BEEN ORDERING LUNCH OR TELLING A JOKE, BUT DOING IT IN A MANNER JUST TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE HE WAS DOING BATTLE FOR US.

TO MAKE A LONG STORY SOMEWHAT SHORTER WE WAITED OVER TWO HOURS FOR A NEW PLANE TO ARRIVE BEFORE HEADING FOR OUR PLANNED DESTINATION, THE TAJ MAHAL.

AT 2:00 WE LANDED AT A SMALL AIRPORT IN AGRA. ALTHOUGH THE SIGNS ON THE SIDE OF THE BUILDING INDICATED THERE WERE BOTH DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL TERMINALS WE WERE REALLY AT A MILITARY AIRSTRIP AND INSTALLATION. ARMED SOLDERS WITH AUTOMATIC WEAPONS WATCHED AS EACH OF US EXITED THE PLANE AND WALKED TOWARD THE DOMESTIC TERMINAL DOOR. LARGE SIGNS INSTRUCTING PICTURE TAKING WAS PROHIBITED WAS STRATEGICALLY PLACED NEXT TO THE WALKWAY. WE DIDN’T HAVE TO CLEAR IMMIGRATION AND RATHER THAN HEAD FOR THE WAITING BUSES, WE HAD MADE A BEELINE TO THE RESTROOMS.

HAVING PERFORMED THOSE BASIC NECESSITIES OF LIFE, AND GLAD WE WERE AS CLOSE TO THE TAJ MAHAL AS WE HAD EVER EXPECTED TO BE, WE BOARDED OUR BUSES, WITH NEW GUIDES, FOR THE THIRTY MINUTE DRIVE TO THE FABLED STRUCTURE. WE HAD TO TRANSFER TO SMALLER BATTERY POWERED BUSES TO GET WITHIN THREE-HUNDRED FEET OF THE EAST GATE OF THE TAJ. PASSING THE HUCKSTER OFFERING EVERYTHING FROM BOTTLED WATER TO LEATHER SANDAL SHOES, WE CLEARED MORE SECURITY, FRISKING AND ALL, AND FINALLY STOOD ON TAJ PROPERTY.

IN ORDER TO GET TO THE TAJ ONE HAS TO ENTER THE GROUNDS THROUGH EITHER THE EAST, WEST OR SOUTH GATES. HOWEVER TO SEE THE TAJ YOU HAVE TO EXIT THROUGH THE NORTH GATE. AS YOU WALK TOWARD THE HIGH RED STONE ARCHED NORTH GATE THE VIEW OF THE MARBLE MAUSOLEUM BEGINS TO COME INTO VIEW AT THE FAR END OF THE PROPERTY. I FOUND MYSELF LIFTING MY CAMERA HIGH ABOVE THE HEADS OF THE PEOPLE IN FRONT OF ME, IN HOPES OF GETTING A PICTURE WHICH CREATED THE EFFECT OF VIEWING THE TAJ THROUGH A TUNNEL.

ONCE THROUGH THE ARCH THE HUGE WHITE MARBLE STRUCTURE CAME INTO FULL VIEW. I HAD SEEN PICTURES OF THE TAJ THAT WERE TAKEN FROM THE VERY SPOT IN WHICH I WAS STANDING. JUST LIKE THE PICTURE I HAVE SEEN MY EYES WERE IMMEDIATELY DRAWN TO THE LARGE WHITE MARBLE DOME PERCHED ON TOP OF THE MAUSOLEUM. SOMEHOW THE PERFECTLY MANICURED GARDENS NEVER COME INTO VIEW. THE LONG NARROW FOUNTAIN SEPARATING THE EASTERN AND WESTERN PORTIONS OF THE GARDENS WAS VOID OF WATER TODAY. WEEKLY MAINTENANCE WE WERE TOLD. HAVING WATER WOULD HAVE ENHANCED THE ALREADY AWESOME VIEW.

ONCE THE INITIAL GAWKING PERIOD ENDED EACH GROUP GATHERED WITH THEIR GUIDE AND HAD PICTURES TAKEN, BOTH INDIVIDUALLY AND AS A UNIT WITH THE TAJ AS A BACKDROP. WHEN THE PICTURE TAKING STOPPED OUR GROUP CHOOSE TO WALK TO THE MAIN STRUCTURE USING THE SHADY PATH ON THE FAR LEFT OF THE SUNNY CENTER ALSLE. NAV, OUR GUIDE COMMENTED AS WE WALKED. THE CLOSER WE GOT TO THE STRUCTURE WE BEGAN TO REALIZE HOW ENORMOUS IT ACTUALLY WAS.

THE MAUSOLEUM IS BUILT AT LEAST 15 TO 20 FEET ABOVE THE GARDENS. BUT BEFORE WE COULD CLIMB THE STAIRS TO THE MAUSOLEUM WE HAD TO PUT FABRIC CLOTH BOOTS OVER OUR SHOES. THE ALTERNATIVE WAS TO REMOVE OUR SHOES AS ALL THE INDIAN VISITORS DO. WE CLIMBED THE STAIRS AND HEADED FOR THE MAIN ENTRANCE. BEFORE ENTERING WE WERE REMINDED NO PHOTOS WERE ALLOWED IN THE MAUSOLEUM.

TWO TOMBS ARE LOCATED INSIDE, THE WIFE, FOR WHOM THE MAUSOLEUM WAS BUILT, AND THE HUSBAND WHO HAD IT COMPLETED AS FULFILLMENT OF HIS PROMISE TO HIS WIFE’S DYING WISH.

IT TOOK TWENTY-TWO YEARS TO COMPLETE, IS MUSLIM IN DESIGN AND THE STORY BEHIND IT HAS THE MAKING OF A GREAT CHIC FLICK. THE WIFE DIED AT AGE THIRTY-NINE FROM COMPLICATION IN GIVING BIRTH TO THEIR FOURTEENTH CHILD IN NINETEEN YEARS OF MARRIAGE. ONLY SEVEN OF THE CHILDREN LIVED. THE IRONY OF THIS GREAT LOVE STORY OF TWO PEOPLE IS OVER RIDDEN WHEN YOU KNOW THAT THE HUSBAND SPENT HIS REMAINING YEARS IN LIFE SENTENCED TO PRISON, BY HIS SON.

THE PRISON, FORT AGRA, IS LOCATED A FEW MILES AWAY. THROUGH THE CELL WINDOWS HE COULD ONLY LOOK AT THE BEAUTIFUL STRUCTURE CREATED FOR HIS LOVING WIFE. THE MASSIVE RED STONE FORT WAS BUILT BY THE GRANDFATHER OF THE CREATOR OF THE TAJ.

IN JUST A LITTLE OVER AN HOUR IN ARRIVING AT THE TAJ WE WERE BEING LED BACK TO THE BUS. MORE BAD NEWS WAS IN STORE. THE LUNCH AND TEA SCHEDULED FOR THE MAHAL SHERATON WAS CANCELLED. THE STOP AT THE FORT WAS NOT LOOKING VERY GOOD, YET OUR GUIDE WAS WILLING TO TAKE US SHOPPING. (I SMELL FISH.) WE VOTED HIM DOWN. WE DID A DRIVE BY AS A PHOTO OPT, UNFORTUNATELY HE DIDN’T LET US OFF THE BUS.

WHAT WAS EVEN WORST, TWO BUSES HEADED STRAIGHT FOR THE AIRPORT, WE STOPPED LONG ENOUGH TO PUSH THE WINDOWS BACK AND TAKE PICTURES, WHILE ONE BUS LET THE GROUP OFF TO WANDER AND TAKE PICTURES. NEEDLESS TO SAY, WE HAD MORE UNHAPPY CAMPERS. HAPPY OR NOT, WE SOON ENTERED THE MILITARY BASE, EXITED THE BUSES, PASSED THROUGH SECURITY AND BOARDED THE WAITING PLANE.

AS WE TOOK OFF, THE SUN BEGAN TO SET, THE SKY TURNED A BURNT ORANGE AND WE ALL SETTLED IN FOR THE TWO HOUR FLIGHT BACK TO MUMBAI. AS WE APPROACHED THE MUMBAI AREA A SEA OF LIGHT COULD BE SEEN FOR MILES IN EVERY DIRECTION. THE LANDING WAS ROCKY AND IT SEEMED THAT IT TOOK FOREVER TO REACH THE END OF THE RUNWAY AND COME TO A STOP.

YOU WOULD THINK THE RETURN BUS TRIP TO THE SHIP COULD NEVER BE AS EVENTFUL AS THE ACTIONS OF THE DAY...BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE.

THIS IS OUR SECOND TRIP TO INDIA AND I WASN’T IMPRESSED WITH THE DRIVING HABITS THEN AND STILL REMAIN UNCONVINCED THAT HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE DON’T DIE EVERYDAY IN TRAFFIC ACCIDENTS. (THEY CLAIM THERE ARE VERY FEW ACCIDENTS) IN MUMBAI ALONE THERE ARE 55,000 TAXI CABS. THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF BICYCLES, MOTORCYCLES, NOT TO MENTION THE OVERWHELMING NUMBER OF TRUCKS, BUSES, CARS, AND THE COWS THAT ARE FREE TO ROAM WHEREVER AND WHENEVER THEY SO PLEASE.

MUMBAI IS A 24 HOUR TRAFFIC JAM AND NIGHT DRIVING PRESENTS NEW CHALLENGES. MANY OF THE CABS DRIVE WITHOUT THE USE OF THEIR HEADLIGHTS. CARS AND CABS, AND SOMETIMES TRUCKS, STOP ALONG THE ROADS SIDES AND CONGREGATE FOR NO APPARENT REASON. ANIMALS STILL ROAM THE STREETS AND THERE ARE MORE PEOPLE ON THE STREETS THAN IN THE DAYLIGHT. STORES FRONTS STILL OPENED AND PEOPLE MINGLE EVERYWHERE.

ON ONE OCCASION WE NEARLY SIDESWIPED ANOTHER BUS ONLY TO COME TO A SCREECHING STOP. AN ELECTRICAL WIRE DANGLED IN FRONT OF US WE HAD NO PLACE TO GO...SEEMINGLY. WILL WE MISS THE SHIP, WILL THE SHIP WAIT? WHAT TO DO? WITHIN THIRTY-SECONDS TWO LARGE TRUCKS MOTORED THROUGH THE INTERSECTION KNOCKING THE WIRE TO THE GROUND. AS WE LOOKED OUT THE WINDOWS YOU COULD TELL THE PEOPLE ON THE STREET CORNERS KNEW EXACTLY WHAT THE SITUATION WAS AND JUST WENT ABOUT THEIR BUSINESS. WE, IN TURN, DROVE OVER THE WIRE AND HEADED FOR THE PORT.

LAST BUT CERTAINLY NOT LEAST, I NEGLECTED TO MENTION TODAYS TEMPERATURE WAS 45 CELSIUS...THAT WOULD BE 110 FAHRENHEIT. HAVE A NICE DAY.