DAY 34 - VILA, VANUATU - MARCH 2, 2010

THE ALARM WENT OF AT 5:30 AND WE WERE OFF AND RUNNING AT A PACE THAT DIDN’T END UNTIL 3:30. GATHERING IN THE LOUNGE AT 7:15 WE WERE SOON LED TO THE VANS WITH NATURE AIR-CONDITIONING. THERE WERE CLOSE TO 30 PEOPLE ON THIS TOUR AND WE PILED INTO 3 VANS.

VANUATU, (VAN-OOH-OUGHT-TO) IS COMPOSED OF 82 ISLANDS AND HAS A POPULATION OF LESS THAN 200,000. IT GAINED ITS INDEPENDENCE IN 1980 FROM FRANCE AND ENGLAND. THE TWO MENTIONED COUNTRIES FELT GERMANY WAS BECOMING TO POWERFUL AND INFLUENCE IN THE EARLY 1900’S AND IN A JOINT VENTURE ARRANGEMENT SHARE THE RULE FOR NEARLY 50 YEARS.

THIS JOINT RULE MADE THINGS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT AS THERE WERE 2 HOSPITALS, TWO SCHOOL SYSTEMS, TWO JAILS, COURTS, SO ON, AND SO ON. THERE ARE STILL SOME PEOPLE ONLY SPEAKING FRENCH, AND SOME ONLY ENGLISH. THE COMMON LANGUAGE IS PIGEON OR BISLAMA.

THE AMERICANS HAD A LARGE PRESENCE DURING WWII AND ARE CREDITED WITH BUILDING MANY OF THE HIGHWAYS AROUND THE ISLAND. I SAY AROUND THE ISLAND BECAUSE THERE ARE VIRTUALLY NO PAVED ROADS ON THE INTERIOR OF VANUATU. WE CAN CERTAINLY ATEST TO THAT AFTER TODAY, WHICH GETS US BACK TO THE TOUR.

PERHAPS THIS ONE LAST FACT. VANUATU IS MOST NOTED FOR BEING THE SITE OF INSPIRATION FOR JAMES MICHENER’S NOVEL WHICH BECAME THE BASIS FOR THE PLAY AND MOIVE SOUTH PACIFIC. HE WROTE THE BOOK ON ONE OF THE ISLANDS IN THE VANUATU CHAIN CLOSE TO VILO.

NOW BACK TO THE DAYS ACTIVITIES.

AS OUR VANS PULLED AWAY WE HEADED PASSED HUNDREDS OF STREET VENDORS SETTIN UP FOR THE SHIP’S PASSENGERS. THE DIRT ROAD WAS TO NARROW FOR TWO LANES OF TRAFFIC AND VENDORS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE ROAD. AFTER 10 MINUTES, SOLO. OUR DRIVER-GUIDE NAVIGATED THE OVERCROWDED THOROUGHFARE ON TO THE MAIN STREETS. OUR FIRST STOP, THE GARAGE FOR A TIRE CHECK. WE TOLD SOLO HE MUST HAVE THOUGHT THE 10 OF US WERE TO HEAVY AND HE HAD TO INFLATE THE TIRES AGAIN.

OUR SECOND STOP, A FUEL FILLUP AND THEN FINALLY ON OUR WAY TO THE REAL FIRST STOP, THE LAROFA VILLAGE CULTURAL CENTER. THE TRIP GETTING TO THE CENTER WAS AS EXCITING AND INTERESTING AS THE CENTER ITSELF. IT WASN’T VERY LONG BEFORE WE LEFT THE PAVED ROADS, SOLO CALLED THEM SEALED, FOR THE MORE PRIMITIVE ROCK AND DIRT ROADS OF VANUATU. BEING A RESIDENT OF EASTERN STATES POTHOLES WERE NOT NEW TO US.

THE FIRST OF THE PRIMITIVE ROADS LEAD TO ANOTHER ROAD, ALTHOUGH NO POTHOLES, RUSTIC WITH HIGH GREEN VEGETATION LINING THE PATH. THE PATH GOT PROGRESSIVELY MORE NARROW AND MORE DENSELY POPULATED WITH BRUSH. WE ARRIVED AT A SMALL CLEARING AND WE PILED OUT OF THE VAN. MANY OF US USED BUG REPELLENT TO SPRAY UNPROTECTED AREAS OF OUR BODY BEFORE ENTERING THE FOOT PATH LEADING TO THE FORREST.

IT WAS SOON APPARENT THAT IF ALONE ONE COULD GET LOST VERY EASILY HOWEVER THE CONSTANT CHATTER OF THE GROUP AND LOUD NOISES, SOMETIMES SCREAMS, CONTINUED TO DRAW US DEEPER INTO THE WOODS. ALMOST VOID OF SUNLIGHT WE MARCHED ALONG STEPPING OVER LARGE ROOTS AND UNDER LOW HANGING VINES AND SCRUBS. AT ONE POINT A BARE-CHESTED DARK SKINNED MAN RAN PASSED US WEARING A LARGE GREEN LEAF HAT AND A GARMET WOVEN OF STRAW LIKE MATERIAL COVERING THE TRUNK OF HIS BODY. SOMEWHAT STARTLED I KNOW I MISSED A PHOTO OPPORTUNITY AND BY THE TIME I TURNED TO SNAP THE PIX HE WAS GONE FROM SIGHT. JUST THEN ANOTHER WARRIOR TYPE FIGURE APPEARED ON A LONGER, STRAIGHTER STRECH OF THE PATH AND I RAISED MY CAMERA TO SNAP HIS PHOTO. EVERY BIT THE TOURIST I AM, AND EVERY BIT THE ENTERTAINER HE WAS, HE STOPPED, CROUCHED IN A WARRIOR POSE, RAISED HIS SPEAR AND LOOKED AS MEAN AS COULD BE. I GOT MY PIX, RAISED MY THUMB IN APPROVAL, HE SMILED AND WENT ON HIS WAY.

WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE CROWD GATHERED AROUND AYOUNG MAN DRESSED IN WARRIOR CEREMONIAL REGALIA EXPLAINING THE ITEMS FOUND IN THE FORREST ON WHICH HIS NATIVE ANCESTORS SURVIVED. A LONG LIST OF MATERIAL USED TO HEAL THE BODY, MAKE CLOTHES AND MAKE WAR. WE MOVED TO ANOTHER SECTION OF THE FORREST AND HE CONTINUED TO ILLUSTRATE THOSE ITEMS USED IN TRAPPING ANIMALS FOR FOOD AND THE METHODS USED IN CATCHING FISH.

IN ANOTHER SECTION HE SHOWED US A PIT, LINED WITH BANANA LEAVES, THAT WAS USED AS A MEANS OF REFRIGERATION ALONG WITH SOME OF THE FRUITS KEPT IN THE UNDERGROUND FRIDGE. THE MEAR MENTION OF FOOD, AND THE SIGHT OF SMOKE OFF TO MY LEFT, I ASSUMED WE WERE GOING TO BE FED. HOWEVER THIS WAS NOT TO BE. INSTEAD HE DREW OUR ATTENTION TO A GIGANTIC BANYON TREE BEHIND US. HE NOTED THE TRUNK AND ROOTS PROVIDED ENOUGH SPACE FOR THE PEOPLE TO SEEK REFUGE DURING HURRICANE AND CYCLONES.

WE WERE INVITED TO WALK THOUGH THE TREE TRUNK AND THE PATH WHICH LEAD TO THE AREA WHERE I SAW THE SMOKE. WE ALL SNAPPED PIX ALONG THE WAY. THE AREA WAS NOT A PLACE TO EAT BUT A SHOWPLACE FOR FIRE-WALKING. TREE TRUNKS OF VARIOUS HEIGHTS SURROUNDED THE SMOKEY ROCKS. WE ALL TOOK SEATS, CAMERAS READY, AND WALKER PREPARING HIS FEET FOR HIS TREK ACROSS THE ROCKS.

THERE WAS NOT GREAT CEREMONY AS TWO DAYS BEFORE IN SUVA. THE BURNING LOGS WERE REMOVED, DEBRIS CLEAED FROM THE ROCKS. THE GROUP WAS EQUEST TO COME FORWARD TO GAIN A BETTER, FIRSTHAND LOOK. THEN, WITH VERY LITTLE FANFARE HE BEGAN TO WALK FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. HE EXITED THE HOT ROCKS, EXAMINED THE SOLES OF HIS FEET, MAKING SURE EVERY INDIVIDUAL COULD SEE, AND RETURNED FOR A SECOND WALK THROUGH THE ROCKS.

IN AN EFORT TO SOLIDIFY THE FACT THE ROCKS WERE IN FACT HOT, SEVERAL COUNCH SHELLS FILLED WITH WATER WERE SPRINKLED THEN POURED ON THE ROCK, CREATING A HUGE PUFF OF STEAM.

IN CONTRAST TO THE FIRE-WALK OF VANUATU, THIS WAS THE REAL DEAL. NO SHOWMANSHIP TO TURN THE ROCKS IN SOME SORT OF TRIBAL TRADITION. NO GUYS ACTING MISTER MACHO STANDING ON THE ROCKS TO GET PICTURES TAKEN. YOU COULD JUST TELL THIS WAS MORE AUTHENTIC AND REALISTIC.

AFTER BOARDING OUR BUS THE PLAN WAS TO HEAD TO BANANA BEACH BUT MANY OF THE WOMEN AND SOME OF THE MEN QUESTIONED WHEN WE WOULD GET TO A REAL TOILET. SOLO OFFERED TO TAKE US TO HIS HOUSE WHICH WAS ON THE WAY TO THE BEACH. IT WAS A NICE GESTURE FOR A GUY WHO REALLY COULD HAVE JUST FOUND FACILITIES IN SOME ROADSIDE ESTABLISHMENT. BUT INSTEAD, WE SOON FOUND OURSELVES IN HIS DRIVEWAY FAR OFF THE MAIN ROAD, AND AS YOU WOULD GUESS, A DIRT ROAD. ALL OUR BUSINESS COMPLETED, WE WERE ON OUR WAY TO THE BEACH AND WHAT A TREAT IT WAS. WHITE SANDS AND BEAUTIFUL BLUE WATER CRASHING THE SHORE THROUGH TALL CORAL MUSHROOM SHAPED OBJECTS SCATTERED ABOUT. SEVERAL OF THE FOLKS DIPPED THEIR FEET IN THE WATER BUT QUICKLY CHANGED THEIR MINDS WHEN THEY NOTICED THE JELLY FISH. THEY WERE SMALL BUT THEY PACKED A BIG STING AS SEVERAL OF OUR MEMBERS FOUND OUT.

OUR SHORT STAY WAS OVER AND WE SAT BACK AND ENJOYED THE COUNTRYSIDE AS WE DROVE TO OUR LUNCH SITE, AN HOUR AWAY. THE OTHER TWO VANS HAD ARRIVED FAR BEFORE US, THEY DIDN’T GET A PRIVATE POTTY STOP, AND WERE TAKING THE ENJOYING MORE BEAUTIFUL BEACH SURROUNDINGS. OUR LUNCH WAS NOT WHAT YOU CALL 5 STAR, JUST AN OPEN WOODEN STRUCTURE WITH A ROOF AND LONG BENCHES AND TABLES.

AS WE ATE WE WERE ENTERTAINED BY 3 MUSICIANS, NOT STRONG IN VOICE BUT STRONG IN HEART, SINGING GOSPEL, HYMNS, AND ROCK & ROLL. QUITE A COMBINATION?

WE WERE NOW ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE ISLAND AND THE WEATHER TURNED RAINY IN SOME AREAS BUT THE OVERALL BEAUTY OF THE ISLAND DIDN’T DEMISH AT ALL. WE STILL HAD BREATHTAKING VISTAS, WHITE SAND BEACHES AND MOUNTAINS ALL AROUND. BEFORE CLIMBING THE MOUNTAINS TO RETURN TO THE SHIP WE MADE A STOP AT THE SITE OF THE SURVIVOR CAMP THAT WAS SHOT IN VANUATU SEVERAL YEARS AGO. THE SITE WAS JUST A BUNCH OF CABINS AND FACILITIES, NOW TURNED INTO A TOURIST ATTRACTION. THE ACTUAL EPISODES WERE FILMED ACROSS THE BAY ON ANOTHER ISLAND.

WE ALL SNAPPED A FEW PICTURES AND WE WERE BACK IN THE VAN FOR OUR RETURN TRIP TO THE SHIP. EACH OF THE HILLS WERE NARROW AND STEEP. OUR VAN, PACKED WITH 10 PEOPLE STRUGGLES TO CLIMB TO THE TOP. THE FIRST ATTEMPT ON THE FIRST HILL HAD TO BE ABORTED. SOLO LET THE VAN COAST BACK DOWN THE HILL UNTIL WE REACHED A LEVEL SECTION AND WE BEGAN THE CLIMB AGAIN. I DON’T THINK SOLO EVER TOOK THE VAN OUT OF FIRST GEAR UNTIL WE REACHED THE TOP OF THE HILL.

WE HAD TWO MORE EQUALLY AS STEEP HILLS TO CLIMB AND EACH WAS ACCOMPLISHED IN ONE TRY EACH. AS WE APPROACHED THE TOP OF THE LAST HILL AND PREPARED TO DESCEND TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ISLAND AGAIN, WE ENCOUNTERED SOME ROAD CONSTRUCTION AND WE WERE DELAYED ABOUT 20 MINUTES. THE DELAY SHORTENED THE SHOPPING TIME IN THE MARKET AREA IN THE CENTER OF TOWN.

ALTHOUGH MOST OF US DID NO SHOPPING AT ALL, THE STOP PROVIDED ANOTHER OPPORTUNITY FOR PICTURES OF THE LOCALS AND THE RESORT SHORELINE ACROSS THE BAY.

WE ARRIVED BACK ON THE SHIP SHORTLY BEFORE SAILING AND NAPS WERE ON OUR MIND. WE SKIPPED DINNER, POOR US, BUT MANAGED TO MAKE IT TO THE FIRST SHOW OF THE NEWEST COMEDIAN TO COME ONBOARD. RONDELL SHERIDAN HAD SOME FUNNY STUFF HOWEVER, BOB, ONE OF THE PASSENGERS MADE THE DAY. THE COMEDIAN ASK A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS OF THE AUDIENCE. BOB SPOKE UP ONE TIME IN A SMART ASS WAY AND THAT’S ALL IT TOOK FOR THE SHOW TO GET DIRECTED TOWARDS BOB.

I DON’T THINK RONDELL EVER GOT TO DO HALF OF HIS PLANNED ROUTINE BUT THE AUDIENCE REALLY DIDN’T CARE. EVERYONE HAD A GOOD LAUGH AT BOB’S EXPENSE BUT BOB JUST COULD NOT KEEP HIS BIG MOUTH SHUT.

GEORGIA AND I HIT THE BISTRO FOR ONLY THE SECOND TIME AND HAVE COME TO THE CONCLUSION IT IS NOT FOR US. ROLLS WERE STALE, FOOD WAS COOL, AGAIN, AND IT WASN’T A PLEASANT EXPERIENCE, BUT THE DAY WAS A SUCCESS IN SPITE OF CLOSING OUT THE DAY ON A POOR NOTE.