OBSERVATIONS AND SUMMARY

WELL, THE DAY FINALLY ARRIVED. IT SEEMS SO LONG AGO WE LEFT THAT COLD, SNOWY, DREAY DAY IN LATE JANUARY. YET, IN SOME RESPECTS, IT SEEMS LIKE ONLY YESTERDAY. SO MUCH WAS ANTICIPATED, SO MUCH UNKNOWN, SO MUCH TO LEARN, SO MUCH TO SEE AND SO MUCH TIME TO DO IT.

COULD WE SURVIVE THE BOREDOM, WOULD WE, IN FACT, BE BORED? WOULD WE OVER EAT, WOULD BE ABLE TO MAKE NEW FRIENDS AND WOULD OUR DINNER TABLE MATES BE EASY TO GET ALONG WITH AND FLEXIBLE?

COULD WE ENDURE AN INSIDE CABIN FOR 107 DAYS AND NIGHTS? WOULD WE BE AT EACH OTHERS NECKS AND COME BACK ENEMIES, INSTEAD OF FRIENDS AND LOVERS? WOULD WE BE DRAWN CLOSER OR FURTHER APART?

WE LOOKED FORWARD TO THE FORTY DAYS IN PORT, BUT WHAT TOLL WOULD THE SIXTY-SEVEN DAYS AT SEA TAKE ON US AND OUR LOVE FOR CRUISING?
IT CAN ALL BE SUMMED UP IN JUST A FEW WORDS, WHERE DO WE SIGN UP?

OUR BUCKET LIST HAS MORE ITEMS ON IT NOW THAN WHEN WE LEFT HOME IN JANUARY. I RECENTLY READ, THE WORLD IS A BOOK, AND TO ONLY EXPERIENCE WHAT IS IMMEDIATELY AROUND YOU IS LIKE ONLY READING BUT ONE PAGE OF THE BOOK. WE HAVE ENJOYED SEEING LANDMARKS OF GREAT ESTEEM AND OTHERS THAT ARE LESSER KNOWN.

HOWEVER, IT IS THE PEOPLE OF THESE FAR OFF PLACES THAT ADD SO MUCH TO THE EXPERIENCE OF SEEING THE WORLD. (IT IS GOVERNMENTS THAT ARE THE P.I.A. OF THIS WORLD). I DON’T WANT TO IMPLY THAT ALL PEOPLES EMBRACE THE VISITORS THAT INVADE THEIR LANDS. AND BY NO MEANS, DO THE VISITORS EMBRACE ALL THOSE THEY COME ACROSS. IT IS JUST AS IMPORTANT TO PEOPLE WATCH WHEN TRAVELING AS IT IS TO SEE THE ICONIC SITES OF THIS WORLD.

OUR VENTURE TO THESE FAR OFF PLACES WAS MOST INTERESTING BECAUSE THE SIZE OF OUR SHIP PERMITTED US TO ENTER HARBORS MOST LARGER CRUISE LINERS WOULD BYPASS, ESPECIALLY THE SMALL ISLANDS IN THE PACIFIC.

ISLAND LIFE IS SIMPLE, LAID-BACK AND AS A RULE, POOR. YET THE PEOPLE ALWAYS SEEM TO BE VERY HAPPY-GO-LUCKY. ONES FIRST THOUGHT IS THEY DON’T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE MISSING, YET MANY OF THEM HAVE SATELLITE DISHES ON THE ROOFS OF THEIR HOMES. THEY ARE NOT VOID OF THE OUTSIDE WORLD.

THE COUNTRIES OF THE MUSLIM WORLD ARE MOST INTERESTING AS SEVERAL STRIVE TO ENTER THE MODERN TIMES, WHILE OTHERS REMAIN IN THE WORLD OF CENTURIES LONG GONE. SURE THEY HAVE CARS, AND CELL PHONES, AND TELEVISION BUT THEY CHOOSE TO LIVE BY STANDARDS LONG AGO TOSSED ASIDE.

THE MUSLIM CULTURE HAS ABSOLUTELY NO RESPECT FOR WOMEN. THEIR PLACE IN LIFE IS TO COOK, HAVE BABIES AND BE SUBSERVIENT TO THE MEN WHO RULE THEIR LIVES. THE CALL TO PRAYER, FIVE TIMES A DAY, RARELY INCLUDES THE WOMEN, AND ALTHOUGH SOME MOSQUES ALLOW WOMEN TO ATTEND, ON CERTAIN DAYS, THEY MUST STAY SEPARATE FROM THE MEN. YOU MIGHT RECALL THE BATHROOM EPISODE IN MUSCAT (SEE DAY 93).

THE CHINESE ARE VERY EAGER TO MEET AND TALK TO VISITORS, ESPECIALLY AMERICANS. CHINA IS A BUSTLING BEEHIVE OF CONSTRUCTION IN THE MAJOR CITIES. PLACES LIKE BEIJING AND TIANJIN ARE LARGER THAN YOU CAN IMAGINE. SMALL CITIES HAVE ONLY A MILLION PEOPLE AND BASED ON THOSE STANDARDS PITTSBURGH DOESN’T QUALIFY TO BE A VILLAGE.

WE WERE SURPRISED TO FIND PUSAN, KOREA SO MODERN AND PROGRESSIVE. WE EXPECTED A SLEEPY LITTLE TOWN, BUT IN FACT IT IS A MAJOR SHIPPING CENTER IN ASIA.

SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG ARE JUST LIKE THE LARGEST OF CITIES IN AMERICA. OTHER THAN A FEW CULTURAL THINGS, LOOKING UP AT THE TALL BUILDINGS YOU MIGHT THINK YOU WERE IN NEW YORK, LOS ANGELES, CHICAGO OR EVEN PITTSBURGH.

THE DESERTS OF CENTRAL ASIA AND AFRICA, EGYPT, JORDAN, DUBAI AND OMAN, JUST CAN’T BE ANY HOTTER THAN WHAT WE THINK HELL IS LIKE. IT IS HARD TO BELIEVE LIFE HAS EXISTED IN THESE AREAS SINCE THE BEGINNING OF TIME. GLOBAL WARMING IS NOTHING NEW TO THESE PEOPLE, IF, IN FACT, THERE IS SUCH A THING. THEN AGAIN, MAYBE WE ARE TO THIN SKINNED. AT ANY RATE THESE COUNTRIES SHOULD BE THANKFUL THEY DON’T HAVE UNIONS THAT COULD CREATE WORK STOPPAGES WHEN THE TEMPERATURE GETS ABOVE 100.

INDIA IS EVERYTHING SLUMDOG MILLIONAIRE PORTRAYED. IT IS, AS THEY DESCRIBE THEMSELVES, INCREDIBLE. MILLIONS OF PEOPLE, TALL BUILDINGS, ENERGETIC, INDUSTRIOUS AND PACKED WITH SOME OF THE POOREST LIVING CONDITIONS IMAGINABLE. AS OUR INDIAN TABLE MATES PUT IT, “THEY JUST DON’T SEEM TO HAVE ANY PRIDE IN THEMSELVES.”

MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA POSSESS GREAT BEAUTY AND IF IT WERE NOT FOR TOURIST THEY WOULD LIVE IN TOTAL POVERTY. IT IS A HAVEN FOR DICTATORS, OPPRESSION AND THE OPPORTUNITY TO BLAME OTHERS FOR THERE SITUATION.

WHAT WORDS DESCRIBE THE LANDS DOWN-UNDER. NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIA ARE FABULOUS. (MAYBE BECAUSE THEY SPEAK ENGLISH...OR SOME FORM OF IT...IT CERTAINLY ISN’T THE QUEEN’S ENGLISH) THE COUNTRIES ARE CLEAN, THE PEOPLE ARE FRIENDLY AND THEY ARE PROUD OF THEIR HOMELAND. FURTHERMORE THEY HAVE A DEEP LOVE AND APPRECIATION FOR AMERICA AND WHAT THE YANKS DID FOR THEM IN WWII. THANK GOD SOMEBODY LOVES US.

WE WERE ONCE TOLD THAT THE BEST THING YOU CAN GIVE YOUR KIDS ARE ROOTS AND WINGS. WE TRUST WE HAVE DONE OUR JOB. THEY HAVE CERTAINLY TAUGHT US HOW TO USE OUR WINGS, AND COMING HOME, NO MATTER HOW GOOD A TIME THE HOLIDAY MAY HAVE BEEN, IS JUST AS EXCITING AND ADVENTURIST.

IT HAS BEEN ANOTHER TRIP OF A LIFETIME. IT HAS COME AND GONE, WAY TO SOON. WE HAVE SEEN GREAT PLACES, MADE MANY NEW FRIENDS, TOOK THOUSANDS OF PICTURES AND LEARNED MORE THAN WE EVER EXPECTED. THE QUESTION IS, WOULD WE DO IT AGAIN, IN A HEARTBEAT?

WE HAD BEEN ASKED WHAT OUR FAVORITE PLACES TO VISIT HAVE BEEN. FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT WAS ONCE ASKED WHICH OF HIS PROJECT WAS HIS FAVORITE...TO WHICH HE REPLIED...HIS NEXT. SO IT IS WITH GEORGIA AND ME, THE BUCKET LIST GETS LONGER AND EACH BROCHURE RECEIVED IN THE MAIL BRINGS NEW IDEAS AND PLANS. I’VE SAID BEFORE, WE SCRAP MORE PLANS THAN WE MAKE, BUT WHEN WE MAKE THEM ...LOOK OUT.

GODS CREATIONS ARE MARVELOUS, EVEN WHEN HE USES MAN TO MAKE SOME OF THEM. GOD IS GREAT AND MY SWEETIE WAS BY MY SIDE.


THANK YOU FOR FOLLOWING OUR ADVENTURE. IF YOU THINK ABOUT IT, PLEASE SIGN IN AS A FOLLOWER. WE WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHO SHARED OUR JOURNEY.

DAY 108 - ROME, ITALY - MAY 15, 2010

WE WERE UP AT 5:00 AND IN THE BUFFET BY 5:30. FOR SOMETHING TO EAT. WE HAD A LONG DAY AHEAD OF US. WHEN WE FINISHED WE WENT STRAIGHT TO THE LOUNGE AND WAITED FOR THE WORD THE SHIP HAD CLEARED IMMIGRATION. ONCE CLEARED THE DISEMBARKING PROCESS COULD BEGIN. WE WERE SCHEDULED FOR THE FIRST GROUP SINCE OUR PLANE DEPARTED ROME INTERNATIONAL BEFORE 10:30.

AS WE LEFT THE SHIP WE SWIPED OUR KEYCARDS FOR THE LAST TIME AND HEADED FOR THE TERMINAL AND OUR LUGGAGE. SURPRISINGLY ALL FIVE PEICES WERE TOGETHER. WITH LUGGAGE AND PASSENGERS ON THE BUSES OUR NEXT STOP WAS THE AIRPORT.

THE WORST PART OF CRUISING IS THE RETURN TRIP HOME, ESPECIALLY THE AIRPORT HASSLES. THIS PROVED TO BE NO DIFFERENT. RECOVERING OUR LUGGAGE FROM THE BUS WENT SMOOTHLY HOWEVER THE CROWDS OF PEOPLE HAD TO BE FUNNELED THROUGH SIX TINY PATHS FOR THAT FINAL IMMIGRATION PROCESS. SOME PEOPLE GOT VERY TESTY. THE PROBLEM WAS COMPOUNDED AS THE LUGGAGE CARTS HAVE TO STAY BY YOUR SIDE. THE CROWDS WERE NOT HAPPY CAMPERS BY ANY MEAN. IT TOOK US ALMOST FORTY-FIVE MINUTES TO NEGOTIATE OUR LINE ONLY TO BE USHERED THROUGH A DOOR TO THE TERMINAL AND ANOTHER LONG LINE FOR THE CHECK-IN PROCEDURE, LUGGAGE STILL AT OUR SIDE.

AFTER ASKING ABOUT THE LINES I VENTURED FORWARD TO READ THE TWO SIGNS WHERE THE LINE BEGAN TO BEND TO THE RIGHT. ONE OF THE SIGNS INDICATED ATLANTA AND THE OTHER NEW YORK. OUR FLIGHT WAS TO NEW YORK AND WE MADE A BEELINE FOR IT. ALTHOUGH THE SITUATION IMPROVED, THE “Q” WAS PACKED AND SNAKED AROUND SEVERAL TIMES. I MUST ADMIT, WE WERE HAPPY THAT OUR LINE WAS MUCH SHORTER THAN THE ATLANTA LINE.

TIME WAS TICKING AWAY AS WE APPROACHED THE CHECK-IN DESK. SOMEDAY IT MIGHT BE CHEAPER TO GO ON VACATION AND RENT CLOTHES AS OPPOSED TO PACKING YOUR OWN. THE AIRLINES CHARGE FOR ALMOST EVERYTHING NOW DAYS AND DELTA IS NO EXCEPTION. WE WERE ALLOWED ONE BAG FREE, FOR EACH OF US, WITH OUR SECOND BAGS CHARGED AT ONE PRICE AND THE THIRD BAG AT A HIGHER RATE. WHAT A RIP!

WITH THE BAGS CHECKED AND CREDIT CARD CHARGED WE WERE USHERED TO YET ANOTHER LONG LINE FOR THE SECURITY SCREENING. AT THIS POINT I COULD SEE OURSELVES WAVING GOODBYE TO THE PLANE IF THE PROCESS DIDN’T START TO MOVE MORE QUICKLY.

WE DID FEEL JUST AS IF WE WERE IN AMERICA THROUGH THE PROCESS, HOWEVER. THERE WERE THOUSANDS OF PASSENGERS AND ONLY ONE LINE FOR SCREENING. HAVING CLEARED THE METAL DETECTORS WE MADE OUR WAY TO THE GATE AND ANOTHER SCREENING PROCESS. AS WE FINALLY REACHED THE GATE, BOARDING HAD BEGUN AND WE TOOK OUR PLACE IN LINE AND FOUND OUR SEATS.

THE FLIGHT WAS LONG, SMOOTH AND WE PASSED OUR TIME WATCHING MOIVES AND LISTENING TO MUSIC ON THE IN HOUSE SYSTEM. THE NEXT HURTLE WAS JFK. SURPRISINGLY, THE PROCESS CLEARING CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION WENT QUITE WELL. THE HARD PART WAS THE FIVE HOUR LAYOVER.

I’M NOT A NEW YORK FAN AND JFK, BEING IN NEW YORK, IS HIGH ON THE LIST OF THINGS TO HATE ABOUT NEW YORK. I SUPPOSE THE FIVE HOURS MOVED QUICK ENOUGH BUT WE WERE SURE GLAD WHEN WE BOARDED THE PLANE FOR FORT LAUDERDALE. HOWEVER, NO EXIT FROM NEW YORK COMES EASY.

THE FLIGHT IS NORMALLY TWO AND A HALF HOURS BUT THE SCHEDULED CALLED FOR AND EXTRA HOUR. IT TURNS OUT THERE IS CONSTRUCTION AT JFK AND TAXIING TO THE PROPER RUNWAY TAKES FOR EVER. NEW YORK WILL DO ANYTHING TO MAKE YOUR STAY PLEASANT...I GUESS.

WE WERE EXPECTING COLETTE AND SCOTT AT THE AIRPORT BUT WERE SURPRISED TO SEE CHRIS ALSO. HE FLEW IN FROM KENTUCKY FOR THE WEEKEND AND HE WAS A VERY WELCOME ADDITION. WE ALL WENT TO DENNY’S FOR SOME DESSERT BEFORE SETTLING IN AT COLETTE’S.

REALITY IS BEGINNING TO SET IN, WE HAD TO PAY FOR A MEAL.

DAY 107 - SORRENTO, ITALY - MAY 14, 2010

WE WERE WIDE AWAKE LONG BEFORE ENTERING THE BAY OF NAPLES AND DROPPING ANCHOR AT SORRENTO. THE SORRENTO PORT IS NOT DEEP ENOUGH FOR CRUISE SHIP AND IS ONE OF THE FEW PORTS ON THIS CRUISE WHERE TENDERING IS REQUIRED.

I WAS READY BEFORE GEORGIA AND HEADED FOR THE TOP DECK TO GET SOME PICTURES AS WE TRAVELED ALONG THE COAST AND INTO THE BAY. ALTHOUGH THE SKY WAS OVERCAST AND HAZY, THE SHORELINE WAS VISIBLE AND THE PICTURES WERE NOT GREAT. AMALFI AND POSITANO WERE NOT CLEAR BUT HAVING BEEN TO ITALY BEFORE, THE SHORELINE WAS UNMISTAKABLE.

AS WE ATE BREAKFAST THE WEATHER LOOKED AS THOUGH IT WAS GOING TO BE THE FIRST BAD TOUR DAY OF THE CRUISE. HOWEVER, OUR EXCITEMENT OF GOING TO CAPRI FOR THE FIRST TIME WOULD NOT BE DENIED BY A LITTLE BAD WEATHER.

AS WITH ALL SHIP TOURS WE HEADED FOR THE LOUNGE FOR CHECK-IN AND BUS ASSIGNMENT. IT WAS THE FIRST TIME I CAN REMEMBER HAVING EVERYONE GATHERED SO QUICKLY FOR TRANSPORT TO SHORE. WE WERE ON THE TENDER AND HEADING STRAIGHT FOR THE SORRENTO CLIFFSIDE WHERE OUR TOUR GUIDE, ENZO, WAS WAITING. HE GAVE US OUR TICKETS FOR THE JET-BOAT TO CAPRI AND BEFORE WE KNEW IT WE WERE WHISKING ALONG THE WATER TO CAPRI. THE CLOUDS WERE BREAKING, THE SUN WAS PEEPING THROUGH AND THE DAY WAS BEGINNING TO LOOK PRETTY BRIGHT.

OUR BOAT PULLED ALONG THE PIER AND WE ALL MET A SHORT DISTANCE AWAY NEAR SOME RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS. THE LITTLE HARBOR WAS JUST AS I HAD SEEN IT ON THE TRAVEL CHANNEL. COLORFUL SHOP FRONTS, SEVERAL DOZEN SMALL FISHING BOATS AND THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE.

THE TOWN OF CAPRI ACTUALLY SITS HIGH ON THE HILL AND IN ORDER TO GET TO THE TOWN FROM THE PIER SMALL BUSES PROVIDE TRANSPORTATION. OUR GROUP WAITED FORTY MINUTES BEFORE BOARDING TWO BUSES FOR THE HAIR RAISING TRIP TO THE TOP. OUR FIRST STOP WAS THE TOWN OF ANACAPRI.

ANACAPRI SITS ON A HIGHER HILL THAN CAPRI AND THE TRIP IS FILLED WITH DOZENS OF SWITCHBACKS, NARROW PASSAGES AND CLIFFSIDE THRILLS. THE SMALL TOWN IS MORE LIKE A TINY SHOPPING COMMUNITY AS THERE ARE VERY FEW HOMES IN THE AREA.

WE MET WITH OUR GUIDE AND HE OUTLINED OUR SCHEDULE. WE HAD A FEW MINUTES IN AN EXCLUSIVE SET OF SHOPS. THE PLAN ALSO CALLED FOR A VISIT TO THE ST. MICHELLE MUSEUM. HOWEVER HE LEFT IT OPEN AND WHEN GEORGIA AND I HEARD THE OPTION WE JUMPED AT THE OPPORTUNITY TO STRAY FROM THE GROUP. OUR MEETING TIME WAS SET FOR 11:30 NEAR THE STEPS.

OUR CHOICE WAS TO RIDE THE SKI-LIKE CHAIRS TO THE VERY HIGHEST POINT ON THE ISLAND. A ROUND TRIP COST US NINE EURO EACH AND WAS, BY FAR, THE MOST SPECTACULAR VANTAGE POINT ON THE ISLE OF CAPRI. UNLIKE MOST SKI LIFT CHAIRS THESE WERE ONLY MADE FOR ONE. GEORGIA HOPPED ON FIRST AND I FOLLOWED. I KNEW GEORGIA WOULD BE HOLDING ON FOR DEAR LIFE, AND PERHAPS HAVE HER EYES CLOSED AS WE CLIMBED TO THE TOP. I HANDLED THE CAMERA AND PICTURE TAKING AS WE ROSE TO THE TOP.

THE TRIP TAKES ABOUT FOURTEEN MINUTES AND AT ONE POINT AS YOU REACH ONE OF THE TOWERS, THE LIFT SINKS INTO THE VALLEY BEFORE BEGINNING THE CLIMB AGAIN. THE VIEW OF THE FINAL DESTINATION DROPS OUT OF SIGHT FOR A SHORT TIME. WHEN THE CHAIR REACHES THE PLATFORM, TWO ASSISTANTS HELP YOU EXIT THE LIFT BEFORE IT SWEEPS AROUND THE LARGE IRON WHEEL AS IT STARTS ITS FOURTEEN MINUTE RETURN TRIP DOWN HILL.

GEORGIA AND I CLIMBED THE STAIRS TO THE OBSERVATION AREA AND ENJOYED THE BEAUTIFUL, MARVELOUS, VIEW OF THE CAPRI COASTLINE AND THE BAY OF NAPLES. EACH DIRECTION PROVED TO BE EXCEPTIONABLE AND PROVIDED AN ALMOST 360 DEGREE PANORAMIC VIEW. AS WE PREPARED FOR OUR JOURNEY DOWN THE MOUNTAIN A SLIGHT MIST BEGAN TO CROSS A PORTION OF THE NORTHERN TIP OF THE ISLAND ADDING A MYSTERIOUS ERA FOR OUR ADVENTURE DOWNHILL.

WE BOARDED OUR CHAIRS FOR THE TRIP DOWN, GEORGIA HELD ON TIGHT AND I HANDLED THE CAMERA. AS WE REACHED THE FIRST OF THE FOURTEEN TOWERS THE MIST BROKE AND THE BLUE SKIES RETURNED, PROVIDING BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF THE VALLEY BELOW. THE BLUE WATER OF THE BAY AND THE LUSH GREEN VALLEY WERE IDEAL FOR SNAPPING PICTURE AFTER PICTURE. WE REACHED THE BOTTOM AT EXACTLY 11:30 AND THE SCHEDULED MEETING TIME.

AFTER ANOTHER FORTY MINUTE WAIT FOR TWO BUSES OUR GROUP BEGAN THE JOURNEY TO CAPRI, AND LUNCH AT A LOCAL HOTEL, OF WHICH THERE ARE MANY. WE EXITED THE BUS AND WALKED TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE SMALL TOWN. THERE IS A CERTAIN SPOT ALONG THE WAY WHERE NO CARS ARE PERMITTED ON THE STREETS. IT IS ESPECIALLY APPROPRIATE THAT NO CARS ARE ALLOWED BECAUSE THE CROWDS ARE OVERWHELMING.

OUR GUIDE RELATED THEIR ARE 12,000 RESIDENCE ON THE ISLAND AND DURING THE TOURIST SEASON AS MANY AS 15,000 ADDITIONAL PEOPLE INVADE THE ISLAND. WE ARE HERE AT THAT IN BETWEEN SEASON AND I CAN’T IMAGE MORE PEOPLE THAN THOSE WE ENCOUNTERED TODAY.

ENZO SHOWED US OUR MEETING PLACE, WHICH WAS CURRENTLY SET FOR 3:30, AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE BASED ON HOW FAST WE GET THROUGH LUNCH. A SHORT FIVE MINUTE WALK DOWN SEVERAL HILLS AND WINDING ALLIES, WE REACHED OUR HOTEL RESTAURANT. IT WAS A COZY LITTLE PLACE, THE RESTAURANT WAS TOWARD THE BACK AND OUR ROOM WAS A GLASS ENCLOSURE WITH VIEWS OF THE GARDEN.

WHEN WE FINISHED LUNCH WE MET ENZO. THE PLAN WAS TO VISIT AN OUTDOOR GARDEN DOWN NEAR THE COAST AND BELOW THE HOTEL. HOWEVER, GEORGIA AND I OPTED TO LEAVE THE GROUP AND WALK THE NARROW STREETS OF THE TOWN. WE STOPPED OCCASIONALLY TO TAKE PICTURES AND WINDOW SHOP, MY FAVORITE KIND OF SHOPPING.

THE ULTIMATE GOAL WAS TO WALK OFF ENOUGH CALORIES TO ENJOY AN ITALIAN GELATO. NO TRIP TO ITALY IS A TRIP TO ITALY WITHOUT HAVING A BIG CONE OR CUP OF GELATO. THERE MAY NOT ALWAYS BE ROOM FOR JELLO, BUT THERE IS ALWAYS ROOM FOR GELATO. WE FINISHED THEM WHILE WAITING FOR THE ENTIRE GROUP TO GATHER.

ENZO GAVE US OUR FUNICULAR TICKETS AND ANOTHER MEETING TIME AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HILL NEAR THE PIER. SHORTLY AFTER GATHERING WE WALKED TO THE JET-BOAT AND BEGAN OUR TRIP BACK TO THE SORRENTO PIER. A SHORT WALK FROM OUR DROP POINT WE BOARDED OUR TENDER FOR THE SHIP.

WE BOARDED THE SHIP AND HAD TIME TO CLEANUP AND MEET FOR OUR LAST SUPPER, SO TO SPEAK, ON THE PACIFIC PRINCESS. OUR LUGGAGE WAS OUTSIDE OUR CABIN DOOR BEFORE LEAVING FOR DINNER. ALL OF OUR TABLE MATES SHOWED UP FOR DINNER. IN AS MUCH AS GEORGIA AND I ATE LUNCH, AND A BIG ONE AT THAT, SO LATE WE LIMITED OUR CHOICES FOR DINNER. WE DID HOWEVER SAVE ROOM FOR THE INFAMOUS SHIP DESSERT, BAKED ALASKA.

THE FINAL SHOW WAS NOTHING SHORT OF SPECTACULAR. THE GROUP WAS CALLED THE BEATLES REUNION. FOR ALMOST AN HOUR THEY PERFORMED ALL BEATLE SONGS. THEY DRESSED, SOUNDED AND LOOKED LIKE THE FAB FOUR. THEY WERE EVEN FROM LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND. AFTER THE SHOW WE HEADED FOR THE CABIN, DID SOME LAST MINUTE PACKING TO OUR CARRYON LUGGAGE, SET THE ALARMS AND FELL ASLEEP. THE SHIP DOCKS AT 5:00 AND OUR SCHEDULED TIME OF DISEMBARKING IS 6:30.

DAY 106 - AT SEA - MAY 13, 2010

TODAY WAS REALITY DAY. WE HAVE A TOUR TOMORROW, GET OFF THE SHIP EARLY SATURDAY MORNING AND WE ARE IN NO MOOD TO STAY UP LATE FRIDAY NIGHT TO PACK. THEY WOULD LIKE THE MAJORITY OF THE LUGGAGE OUTSIDE OUR CABIN DOOR BEFORE GOING TO DINNER FRIDAY.

IT DOESN’T MATTER HOW GOOD A TRAVELER ONE MIGHT BE, VERY FEW PEOPLE ARE GOOD AT PACKING, ESPECIALLY FOR 107 DAYS AWAY FROM HOME ON A SHIP. PACKING TO RETURN HOME IS EVEN HARDER. FOR ONE THING YOUR SPIRITS ARE LOW BECAUSE THE HOLIDAY IS OVER; SECOND, AS A RULE YOU HAVE ACCUMULATED MORE STUFF AND THE LUGGAGE CARRIERS DIDN’T GET BIGGER, (BUT WE DID).

TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT, WE DID MANAGE TO GET EVERYTHING PACKED EXCEPT THE CLOTHES NECESSARY TO GET HOME, AFTER GETTING ALL DRESSED UP FOR THE LAST FORMAL NIGHT OF THE CRUISE.

DAY 105 - ATHENS - MAY 12, 2010

WE WERE UP EARLY IN PREPARATION OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF ATHENS. ALTHOUGH WE HAD CONSIDERED CANCELING OUR TOUR BECAUSE OF THE DOMESTIC RIOTS.

THE RUINS OF ATHENS IS A MUST SEE. ALTHOUGH THERE WERE SEVERAL TOURS OFFERED FOR THIS PORT GEORGIA AND I NEVER CONSIDERED ANYTHING OTHER THAN SEEING THE ACROPOLIS.

THE BUSES LOADED QUICKLY AND WERE OFF THROUGH THE STREETS OF PIRAEUS, THE PORT CITY, FOR OUR FIRST STOP. AS WE DROVE TO THE OLYMPIC STADIUM BUILT FOR THE 1896 MODERN DAY GAMES WE PASSED A NEW INDOOR STADIUM BUILT FOR 2004 VOLLEYBALL OLYMPIC GAMES.

THE STADIUM BUILT IN 1896 WAS USED IN THE 2004 GAMES FOR THE MARATHON EVENTS, IN VERY GOOD SHAPE AND IS USED ON A REGULAR BASIS FOR CULTURAL EVENTS. IT HOLDS SIXTY-THOUSAND PEOPLE AND IS OPENED AT ONE END, SOMEWHAT LIKE SEVERAL OF OUR MODERN FOOTBALL STADIUMS IN AMERICA.

IN AS MUCH AS THE PACIFIC PRINCESS WAS ONLY ONE OF FIVE CRUISE SHIPS IN PORT TODAY, THE BUSES LINED UP ON THE STREET SEVEN OR EIGHT DEEP AND THE CROWDS WERE HEAVY. EVENTUALLY WE WERE ABLE TO GET CLOSE ENOUGH TO TAKE PICTURES WITHOUT OTHER PEOPLE INTERFERING. THE VERY NICE FEATURE OF THIS TOUR WAS THE USE OF HEADSETS. EVEN IF WE STRAYED, A FEW WORDS OVER THE HEADSET AND WE KNEW EXACTLY WHERE TO GO.

WE BOARDED THE BUS AND DROVE PASSED THE HOTEL THAT JACKIE ONASSI LOVED, BIG DEAL, AND THE ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS WHICH FEATURES SEVERAL UNIQUE SCULPTURES. THE ATHENS LANDSCAPE IS SUCH THAT ALTHOUGH YOU MAY SEEM TO BE IN THE MIDDLE OF A BUSINESS OR RESIDENTIAL AREA, OLD GREECE JUST POPS UP OUT OF NOWHERE. ADDITIONALLY, WE DROVE PASSED THE FORMER ROYAL PALACE, WHICH IS NOW SOME FORM OF GOVERNMENT ADMINISTRATION BUILDING. THE ROYAL FAMILY LIVES IN EXILE IN ENGLAND.

OUR DRIVE TO THE ACROPOLIS RAN INTO A SNAG AS WE HIT THE NARROW CROWDED STREETS CLOSE TO THE ENTRANCE.OUR GUIDE HAD JUST MADE THE DECISION TO EXIT THE BUS SEVERAL BLOCKS FROM OUT DESTINATION WHEN THINGS BEGAN TO CLEAR.

AS WE WALKED THROUGH THE PARK AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ACROPOLIS OUR GUIDE GAVE US ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS IN CASE WE SEPARATED AND GOT OUT OF HEADSET RANGE. WE BEGAN OUR LONG WALK UP A COBBLESTONE STREET TO THE ENTRANCE OF THE RUINS. AS WE WAITED FOR HER RETURN WITH OUR TICKETS WE HAD TIME TO WALK OVER TO, AND CLIMB THE STAIRS, TO MARS HILL. MARS HILL IS THE SITE OF ST PAULS SERMON TO THE GREEKS QUOTED IN THE BIBLE, ACTS 17.

THE VANTAGE POINT FROM THE TOP OF THE HILL PROVIDED SEVERAL BEAUTIFUL PICTURES OF THE AGORA RUINS, THE AGORA STRUCTURE, THE TEMPLE OF HEPHAESTUS, IS ACTUALLY ONE OF THE BEST PRESERVED BUILDINGS OF THE PERIOD. THE ENTIRE BUILDING STANDS COMPLETE WITH ALL ITS PILLARS, STATUES AND ROOF STILL INTACT.

ADDITIONALLY, TO THE LEFT AND ON ANOTHER HILL IS A BEAUTIFUL NEW BYZANTINE CHRUCH WITH MULTIPLE DOOMS.

WE HEARD THE CALL TO REGROUP AND RECEIVE OUR TICKETS FOR ENTRANCE TO THE ACROPOLIS AND PARTHENON. FACTS THAT I HAD EITHER FORGOTTEN, OR PERHAPS NEVER KNEW, WAS THE DISTINCTION BETWEEN THEM. THEREFORE I SHALL TAKE THE TIME TO REMIND US, THE ACROPOLIS IS THE SITE, THE PARTHENON IS THE STRUCTURE. (END OF TODAYS LESSON)

AS WE WALKED THE PATH TO THE TOP OF THE SITE OUR GUIDE STOPPED ALONG THE WAY TO POINT OUT OTHER STRUCTURES SLIGHTLY OVER THE HILL FROM OUR VANTAGE POINT. ONE SUCH RUIN WAS A SMALL AMPHITHEATER, HEROD ATTICUS THEATER, USED FOR ASSEMBLIES. VERY WELL PRESERVED, THE BACK WALL HAD SEVERAL ARCHES WHILE THE SEATING PROVIDES AMPLE ROOM FOR LARGE CROWDS.

AS WE CLIMBED HIGHER THE STONE PATHWAY BECAME MARBLE STAIRS AND A MARBLE PATH. IN SEVERAL AREAS THE MARBLE IS SO WORN THEY HAVE CONSTRUCTED WOODEN STEPS TO PROTECT AND PRESERVE THE ORIGINAL STAIRS. WE WEAVED THROUGH THE SWITCHBACK PATH AND AS WE WALKED UNDER THE TALL MARBLE ARCH BETWEEN THE PILLARS THE HUGE PARTHENON COMPLEX CAME INTO VIEW.

EVEN THOUGH THE STRUCTURE IS CURRENTLY UNDERGOING RESTORATION, THE SCAFFOLDING IS NOT THE FIRST THING TO WHICH YOUR EYES ARE DRAWN. THE EIGHT TALL MARBLE PILLARS ON THE FRONT SIDE AND THE DECAYING MANTEL IMMEDIATELY DRAW YOUR FOCUS. THE BUILDING IS RECTANGULAR IN SHAPE AND THERE ARE A TOTAL OF 46 EXTERIOR PILLARS AROUND THE PERIMETER.

THE Parthenon was constructed between 447-432 BC., to be the focus of the Acropolis building complex. it was dedicated to the goddess Athena Pallas or Parthenos (virgin). The temple’s main function was to shelter the monumental statue of Athena that was made by Pheidias out of gold and ivory. 

TO THE LEFT OF THE PARTHENON IS THE ERECHTHEION.The elegance and delicate forms of the Erechtheion contrast sharply with the neighboring Parthenon. The temple IS Lined WITH long Ionic columns. one SET at the northwest corner which is supported by tall PLAIN columns, and ANOTHER SET at the southwest corner which is supported by six massive female statues, the famous Caryatids.

The Caryatids have become the temple’s signature feature, as they stand ON ONE LEG and seem to casually support the weight of the porch’s roof on their heads. Their identification, or the purpose for such elaborate column treatment is lost through the centuries, but it was by no means a new feature in Greek architecture.

WE GATHERED FOR A BRIEF HISTORY LESSON AND MOVED TO THE FAR END OF THE PARTHENON STRUCTURE. AFTER A FEW INSTRUCTIONS AND AN AGREED UPON MEETING TIME WE WERE ON OUR OWN FOR AN HOUR TO EXPLORE AT WILL.

PART OF THE ORIGINAL SITE IS ELEVATED AT THE FAR END AND IT PROVIDES AN EXCELLENT OBSERVATION VIEWING POINT FOR SNAPPING UNOBSTRUCTED PICTURES OF THE CITY. SEVERAL MILES AWAY A CHURCH SITS AT THE HIGHEST PEAK IN THE CITY. LYCABETTUS HILL IS THE SITE OF THE CHAPEL OF ST. GEORGE.

RETURNING TO GROUND LEVEL WE HEADED TO THE LEFT OF THE PARTHENON TO VIEW THE LARGER AMPHITHEATER, THE THEATER OF DIONYSIOUS, USED FROM ANCIENT TIMES FOR PERFORMANCES.THIS SITE IS CURRENTLY GOING THROUGH RESTORATION. MUCH LARGER THAN THE HEROD THEATER SEEN AT THE BEGINNING OF THE WALKWAY IT DOESN’T HAVE LARGE ARCHED WALLS BUT THE SEATING CAPACITY SEEMS TO BE GREATER AND THE STAGE IS MUCH BIGGER.

THERE ARE ALSO SEVERAL PILLARS BEHIND AND TO THE LEFT OF THE THEATER. THEY ARE THE REMAINS OF THE TEMPLE OF ZEUS. THOSE PILLARS STILL STANDING ARE IN EXCELLENT SHAPE. THE ORIGINAL TEMPLE MUST HAVE BEEN QUITE LARGE.

TIME WAS RUNNING OUT AND GEORGIA AND I BEGAN WALKING BACK TOWARD THE ENTRANCE. FREQUENTLY TURNING TO LOOK BACK FOR ONE LAST GLIMPSE WE SNAPPED PICTURES AS IF THERE WOULD NEVER BE ANOTHER OPPORTUNITY. AS WE RETURNED TO THE CAR-PARK, AS THEY CALL THEM IN OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD, WE REJOICED IN THE FACT WE WERE GOING DOWN THE HILL AND NOT UP. THE HEAT WAS BEGINNING TO BECOME MORE INTENSE AND WE INQUIRED ABOUT BUYING A SODA.

OUR GUIDE KNEW EXACTLY WHERE TO SEND US AND ONCE THERE WE WERE HAPPY CAMPERS. WITH OUR COLD CANS OF COKE IN HAND WE WERE THE ENVY OF THE BUS.

THE RETUN TRIP TO THE SHIP ONLY TOOK FORTY MINUTES AND ONCE SAFELY ON BOARD WE HEADED TO THE BUFFET FOR SOME SOUP AND A SANDWICH. WE HAD A WONDERFUL DAY BUT REALITY WAS BEGINNING TO SET IN AS OUR THOUGHTS TURNED TO PACKING OUR LUGGAGE.

HOWEVER, IT’S NOT OVER YET, ITALY HERE WE COME.

DAY 104 - AT SEA - MAY 11, 2010

THIS WAS SOMEWHAT OF A RELAXING DAY. WE LOOKED FORWARD TO OUR PENDING TRIP TO ATHENS. OVER THE LAST FEW DAYS THE SHIP CAPTAIN TRIED TO KEEP US ABREAST OF THE STATUS IN THE GREECE BANKRUPTCY RIOTS.

IT WAS FINALIZED LATE TODAY TO KEEP ATHENS AS THE PORT OF CALL. THE COMPANY HAD BEEN WORKING ON ALTERNATIVE PORTS, HOWEVER, WE WERE NEVER ADVISED WHAT THE ALTERNATIVES WERE.

WE BEGAN THINKING ABOUT PACKING. THE LAST SEVERAL DAYS LEAVE LITTLE TIME FOR GETTING OUR LUGGAGE READY FOR PICKUP EARLY FRIDAY NIGHT. WE LOOK FORWARD TO ATHENS TOMORROW.

DAY 103 - SUEZ CANAL - MAY 10, 2010

ALTHOUGH WE WERE NOT AWAKE, WE ARRIVED AT THE SOUTH END OF THE SUEZ CANAL ABOUT 2:00 AM IN THE MORNING. OUR SHIP TRAVELED THROUGH THE CANAL AS A CONVOY. NORTH BOUND TRAFFIC ENTERS EARLY IN THE MORNING FROM THE RED SEA AS DOES THE SOUTH BOUND TRAFFIC FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA. TWO LONG STRETCHES OF THE 100 MILE LONG CANAL HANDLED ONE-WAY TRAFFIC IN THE EARLY HOURS OF THE DAY. THESE TWO NARROW AREAS EMPTY INTO EITHER LONGS STRETCHES CONTAINING MEDIAL STRIP TYPE DIVIDERS TO SEPARATE THE FLOW OF THE SHIPS OR THE LARGER BITTER LAKE AREA. TWENTY-THOUSAND SHIPS PASS THROUGH THE CANAL EACH YEAR.

UNLIKE THE PANAMA CANAL, THE SUEZ CANAL IS NOT A LOCK SYSTEM. ALTHOUGH THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS ARE NOT AT THE SAME LEVEL, THE PRIMARY REASON FOR THE LOCK SYSTEM OF THE PANAMA CANAL IS THE MOUNTAIN TERRAIN SEPARATING THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS. THE SUEZ IS A 100 MILE CHANNEL THAT CONNECTS THE SEAS OF ASIA AND EUROPE.

THE INFORMATION WE WERE GIVEN WAS TO ENTER THE CANAL AROUND 7:00 A.M. FOR THE TWELVE TO FOURTEEN HOUR JOURNEY TO THE MEDITERRANEAN END WHERE WE WOULD REFUEL BEFORE CONTINUING TO GREECE. APPARENTLY WE BEGAN THE JOURNEY AROUND 5:00 A.M. GEORGIA AND I WERE IN THE BUFFET BEFORE 8:00 AND WE WERE WELL INTO THE CHANNEL. WE WERE THE THRID SHIP IN THE TWELVE SHIP CONVOY. THE WEATHER WAS ALREADY VERY HOT, VERY DRY, SANDY DESERT ON BOTH SIDES AND PESTY FLIES BECAME AN INCREASING ANNOYANCE. THE HAZY SKIES PREVENTED US FROM SEEING NO MORE THAN TWO OF THE SHIPS BEHIND US.

AS WE MOVED INTO BITTER LAKE SIGNS OF ABUNDANT LIFE BECAME EVIDENT. WE PASSED MILITARY INSTALLATIONS, SMALL COMMUNITIES, RESORTS AND FERRYBOAT LANDINGS USED TO MOVE TRAFFIC FROM THE EGYPTIAN MAINLAND TO THE SINAI PENINSULA. ALTHOUGH WE HAD EXPECTED TO DROP ANCHOR IN BIITER LAKE WHILE WAITING FOR THE NORTHERN PORTION OF THE CANAL TO CLEAR, WE NEVER EVEN SLOWED DOWN BUT INSTEAD CONTINUED INTO THE PASSAGE IN OUR JOURNEY TO THE MEDITERRANEAN.

ONE OF OUR PASSENGERS MENTIONED THAT THE ONLY BRIDGE CROSSING THE SUEZ, NEAR THE END OF THE CANAL, WAS A GREAT PLACE TO TAKE SOME MARVELOUS PICTURES. MOST OF THE PASSENGERS, HOWEVER, DIDN’T REALIZE WE ENTERED THE CANAL EARLIER THAN EXPECTED. WE WERE UNDER THE BRIDGE SEVERAL HOURS BEFORE EXPECTED AND THE BRIDGE WAS BEHIND US BEFORE WE KNEW IT.

THE HUNDRED MILE TRIP THROUGH THE CANAL WAS TO END WITH A STOP FOR FUEL ON THE MEDITERRANEAN SIDE, HOWEVER THE SEA WAS SO ROUGH THE REFUELING WAS CANCELLED AND WE CONTINUED ON TO OUR ATHENS PORT OF CALL.

ANOTHER THING THAT WAS ROUGH WAS THE PESTY FLIES WHICH SEEMED TO INCREASE IN NUMBER AS WE PROGRESSED THROUGH THE CANAL. GEORGIA AND I ABANDONED THE DECK FIVE PERCH WE USED IN TRAVELING THE CANAL. ALTHOUGH THE DECK FIVE WASN’T CLOSED THE AREAS NEAR THE BUFFET CLOSED UNTIL WE ENTERED THE MEDITERRANEAN. THIS JOURNEY, LIKE ALL THE OTHER ADVENTURES IN THIS TRIP, WILL REMAIN ANOTHER TREASURED MEMORY.

DAY 102 - AT SEA - MAY 9, 2010 - MOTHER’S DAY

AS I HAVE SAID BEFORE, SEA DAYS AND SUNDAYS MEAN BRUNCH. AND SO IT WAS, ANOTHER FABULOUS DISPLAY OF FOOD AND DESSERTS. TODAY OF COURSE WAS MOTHER’S DAY AND THE EXTRA DISPLAYS WERE VERY SPECIAL.

PRIOR TO GOING TO BRUNCH WE WENT TO THE PORT TALK BY MARTYN GREEN ABOUT THE SUEZ CANAL. WE REALLY DON’T STOP HERE BUT THE PASSAGE THROUGH IS QUITE INTERESTING BASED ON HIS HISTORICAL INSIGHT. AS AWAYS IT WAS A GREAT PRESENTATION.

GEORGIA AND I SPENT MOST OF THE DAY SITTING ON DECK FIVE LOUNGE CHAIRS READING AND BRINGING THE BLOG UP TO DATE.

DAY 101 - AQABA, JORDAN - PETRA - MAY 8, 2010

WHAT A SURPRISE, WE WERE IN AND OUT OF THE BUFFET BEFORE MOST PEOPLE AND ACTUALLY MADE IT TO THE LOUNGE EARLY ENOUGH TO OBTAIN A GROUP RED #1 STICKER FOR THE TOUR TO PETRA. TEN BUSES TO PETRA TODAY, APPROXIMATELY 350 PASSENGERS. OUR GUIDE SHOWED ALL THE SIGNS OF BEING EXCELLENT EVEN BEFORE LEAVING THE PORT. AS WE WAITED FOR THE OTHER BUSES TO FILL, HE WAS GIVING US ALL THE LOW-DOWN ON WHAT TO EXPECT FOR THE DAY.

TOTAL TRAVEL TIME WAS ESTIMATED TO BE TWO HOURS AND FIFTEEN MINUTES. APPROXIMATELY SIXTY MINUTES INTO THE TRIP WE BEGAN OUR CLIMB INTO THE MOUNTAINS REACHING AN ALTITUDE OF 1700 METERS, OR 5400 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL, (A MILE UP). SHORTLY BEFORE OUR REST STOP WE HIT THE CONSTRUCTION DETOUR AND BEGAN OUR JOURNEY ON A STEEP AND WINDING ROAD THAT RAN PARALLEL TO THE TRANS-JORDAN HIGHWAY. WE RE-ENTERED THE HIGHWAY AGAIN, ABOUT TEN MILES FURTHER NORTH. A SHORT TIME LATER WE LEFT THE MAIN HIGHWAY, TRAVELING BACK ROADS UNTIL WE ARRIVED HIGH IN THE HILLS ABOVE OLD PETRA AND NEW PETRA, WHICH IS CALLED WADI MUSA.

THE STOP GAVE US AN OPPORTUNITY TO USE CLEAN RESTROOMS AND WONDERFUL VIEWS OF THE VALLEY BELOW. WE NATURALLY TOOK SEVERAL PICTURES.

WE LEFT THE REST STOP AND HEADED DOWN THE MOUNTAIN TO WADI MUSA AND THE ENTRANCE TO THE LOST CITY OF PETRA. OUR MARCHING ORDERS WERE TO STAY WITH OUR GUIDE UNTIL WE REACH THE “TREASURY” AND A FEW OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST. ALTHOUGH WE WERE THEN ON OUR OWN, THE ONLY MUST WAS TO BE BACK ON THE BUS AT 3:45. IF WE WANTED TO EAT AT THE CROWN PLAZA HOTEL RESTAURANT, WHICH WAS INCLUDED, WE COULD DO SO BETWEEN 1:30 AN 3:30.

WE RECEIVED OUR TICKETS AND ENTERED THE GROUNDS. THE FIRST STRETCH, JUST SHORT A THIRD OF A MILE, COVERED A LONG GRAVAL PATH WITH ABSOLUTELY NO SHADE. OUR GUIDE POINTED OUR VARIOUS ITEMS OF IMPORTANCE BUT THE HIGHLIGHT WAS WATCHING PEOPLE RIDE THE HORSES, AND DONKEY CARTS DOWN TO THE SIQ, THANKFULLY THEIR PATH WAS SEPARATE FROM OURS.

THE SIQ IS THE LONG NARROW 900 METER, SLIGHTLY MORE THAN HALF A MILE, PASSAGE LEADING TO THE TREASURY AND OTHER HISTORY SITES IN THE LOST CITY. THE WALLS IN THE SIQ ARE SHORT OF 100 FEET TALL AND DISPLAY EVER CHANGING COLORS AS THE SUN REFLECTS OFF OVERHANGS AND CURVATURES IN THE ROCK FORMATIONS. AT TIMES THE COLORS WERE AS BRILLIANT AS THOSE IN BRYCE CANYON AND OCCASIONALLY AS MUTED AS THE DRAB MOUNTAINS IN SOUTHWEST ARIZONA.

THE WALK ON THE SIQ IS ALL DOWNHILL, SO YOU KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS ON THE RETURN TRIP. IT IS CONSTANTLY WINDING LEFT AND RIGHT WITH AREAS IN DARK SHADOW CHANGING TO BLINDING SUNLIGHT AND BACK TO SHADE AGAIN. WITH EACH TURN ON THE PATH GEORGIA AND I WERE READY TO SNAP A PICTURE OF THE FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE TREASURY THROUGH ANY CRACK IN THE WALLS. ALTHOUGH DISAPPOINTED THE NEXT BEND NEVER REVEALED THE TREASURY, WE MARVELED AS EACH CURVE PRESENTED NEW VISTAS, CARVINGS AND STATUES.

A CONSTANT FLOW OF PEOPLE, AND DONKEY CARTS, IN BOTH DIRECTIONS, HAMPERED OR IMPEDED PROGRESS. THE ROAD OR PATH, WAS LOOSE GRAVEL, COBBLESTONE, CONCRETE, SAND AND DROPPINGS, OCCASIONALLY ALL FIVE AT THE SAME TIME, MADE WALKING AN OLYMPIC EVENT.

FORTY MINUTES AFTER STARTING THE WALK DOWN THE SIQ THAT MAGIC MOMENT ARRIVED. THE FIRST GLIMPSE, ALTHOUGH SMALL, OF THE TREASURY COULD BE SEEN THROUGH A TINY OPENING AT THE TOP OF THE OVERHANGING ROCKS. LIKE KIDS IN A CANDY SHOP WE YELLED THEIR IT IS AND BEGAN SNAPPING AWAY. AS WE WALKED TOWARD THE OPENING THE FULL SPECTRUM OF THE TREASURY FACADE WAS STARING US IN THE FACE.

THE RED SANDSTONE CARVED TOWERS AND SCULPTURES GLISTENED AS THE SUN REFLECTED OFF THE FACING. THE INTRICATE DETAILS ABOVE THE PILLARS IMMEDIATELY CAME INTO VIEW. WE STOOD IN AWE AND GAZED AS IF IN A TRANCE, IT IS A SIGHT NOT TO BE FORGOTTEN. MAKING OUR WAY THROUGH THE CROWDS, DONKEYS AND CAMELS WE STOOD ON THE STEPS AND PEERED INTO THE OPEN CHAMBER. WE MARVELED AT THE PRECISION IN THE DETAILED OBJECTS AND THE STRAIGHT LINES OF THE CORNERS. OUR CAMERA WAS WORKING OVERTIME.

THE CRAFTSMEN RESPONSIBLE FOR THESE WORKS OF ART ARE CALLED NABATAEANS, WHICH LITERALLY TRANSLATED MEANS CARVERS. THE TREASURY WAS ONLY THE FIRST OF THE MANY FASCINATING FEATURES IN ALL THE BUILDINGS. YOU MUST UNDERSTAND THAT NONE OF THESE STRUCTURES WERE BUILT IN THE TERMS WE CURRENTLY THINK OF IN TODAYS WORLD. THE HOMES, PALACES AND TOMBS WERE ALL CARVED INTO THE FACE OF THE ROCK AND MOUNTAIN SIDE.

ANOTHER BRIEF MEETING WITH OUR GUIDE AND WE STARTED DOWN ANOTHER HILL TOWARD THE HUGE AMPHITHEATER. SOME SAY IT WAS BUILT TO HOLD AS MANY AS 8000 PEOPLE. A MORE REALISTIC NUMBER WOULD BE AROUND 3000. IN ADDITION TO THE SEATING AREA CHAMBERS IN THE FACE OF THE ROCK, ABOVE AND BEHIND THE SEATS, LOOKED LIKE THE PRIVATE BOXES WE SEE IN THE MODERN ARENAS OF TODAY.

PASSED THE THEATER AND ON A HILLSIDE TO THE RIGHT WAS A HUGE COMPLEX WITH FIVE EXPOSED PILLARS. IT WAS SUSPECTED IT WAS ONCE THE PALACE. HOWEVER AS YOU MOVED ALONG THE PATH NEW VISTAS REVEALED A LONG SET OF STEPS LEADING TOWARD THE PILLARED BUILDING. HOWEVER, INSTEAD OF WALKING FURTHER ALONG PATH, BY NAVIGATING A SMALL HILL BEHIND THE VENDOR THE WHOLE HILLSIDE OPENED UP A HUGE COMPLEX OF ARCHED TOMBS, DWELLING, AND SO MUCH MORE. THE MORE THAT CAUGHT YOUR EYE, THE MORE YOU STOOD IN AWE OF THIS MASTERFUL COMPLEX.

PETRA EXISTED BEFORE THE TIME OF CHRIST AND WAS A MAJOR COG IN THE TRADE ROUTE BETWEEN ASIA AND EUROPE. NO RECORDS REVEAL THE DISAPPEARANCE OF THE NABATAEANS. THE CITY BECAME “LOST” AROUND THE LATE 13TH CENTURY AD. THE SITE REMAINED VIRTUALLY UNKNOWN TO THE WESTERN WORLD UNTIL 1812 WHEN A SWISS EXPLORER, JOHANN LUDWIG BURCKHARDT, REDISCOVERED PETRA. THE BBC PLACE PETRA ON A LIST OF 40 SITES TO SEE BEFORE YOU DIE. I SAY YOU CAN’T GO WRONG.

ALTHOUGH THERE WAS MUCH MORE TO SEE, AND I HAVE ONLY MENTIONED A FEW OF THE STRUCTURES WE OBSERVED, GEORGIA AND I KNEW WE HAD TO START BACK TOWARD THE RESTAURANT AND/OR BUS. THE HEAT WAS BEGINNING TO TAKE ITS TOLL, EVEN THOUGH IT WAS ONLY ESTIMATED TO BE IN THE MID NINETIES.

I FIGURED WE WALKED CLOSED TO TWO MILES ALREADY AND DOWNHILL AT THAT. GEORGIA HAD SPOKEN TO ANOTHER OF THE SHIPS PASSENGERS, AN ENGINEER, WHO HAS WORKED IN THIS AREA, AND IN THIS TYPE HEAT, FOR MANY YEARS. HIS CONCERN WAS KEEPING PLENTY OF FLUIDS IN YOUR BODY AND KEEPING YOUR BRAIN FROM FRYING.

IN THE WINTER WE WEAR HATS TO KEEP OUR BODIES WARM. WITHOUT A HAT YOUR BODY LOSES NINETY PERCENT OF ITS HEAT. IN THE SUMMER WE WEAR HATS TO PROTECT OUR HEADS FROM THE HEAT. HOWEVER, IF YOUR HEAD GETS TO HOT YOUR BRAIN CAN BEGIN TO FRY. YOU BEGIN TO BECOME IRRITABLE, MEAN AND NASTY. WITHOUT SOME MEASURE TO COMBAT THIS YOU COULD DIE. HE GAVE US A GREAT TIP.

THE NIGHT BEFORE LEAVING ON THE TOUR WE SOAKED WASH CLOTHES AND PLACED THEM IN THE FRIDGE. WE TOOK THEM WITH US IN PLASTIC BAGS AND USED THEM AS WE RETURNED TO THE BUSES.

SO ENDS THE LESSON IN HEAT STROKE 101.

I TELL ALL THIS TO LET YOU KNOW WE WOULD NOT HAVE MADE IT IF NOT FOR THE COLD CLOTHES ON OUR HEADS AND NECK DURING THE TWO MILE UPHILL TREK TO THE BUS. I REALLY DIDN’T CARE IF WE MADE IT TO THE “FREE” LUNCH, I JUST WANTED TO BE ALIVE TO EAT DINNER ON THE SHIP. THERE ARE SEVERAL FOUR, FIVE, SIX AND SEVEN LETTER WORDS THAT COULD DESCRIBE THE RETUN TRIP. I’LL JUST SAY IT WAS DIFFICULT.

WALKING THE SIQ WAS EASIER BECAUSE YOU COULD STAY IN THE SHADE FOR MOST OF THE TIME. WE CONSERVED OUR ENERGY, WALKING SLOWLY AND STOPPING FREQUENTLY TO SIT AND REST, EVEN IF IT WERE ON A HARD ROCK (AND I’M NOT TALKING ABOUT THE CAFE). THE STRETCH FROM THE SIQ TO THE MAIN GATE CONCERNED ME.

THERE WAS A BENCH AT THE TOP OF THE SIQ JUST OUTSIDE THE THREE KINGS GIFT SHOP AND WE UTILIZED IT FOR AT LEAST TEN MINUTES. WITH OUR ENERGY RESTORED AND OUR HOPES HIGH WE BEGAN THE ARDUOUS TASK OF WALKING THE LAST THIRD OF A MILE TO THE TOP OF THE HILL. WE COULD HAVE TAKEN THE HORSES FOR NOTHING, IT WAS INCLUDED, BUT IT DIDN’T LOOK THAT COMFORTABLE SO WE WALKED. THE FIRST COUPLE HUNDRED FEET WERE NOT TO BAD ON OUR SYSTEM. THE SUN GOT HOTTER AND FOR WHATEVER REASON IT WAS JUST SHINING ON US. IT WAS REST TIME AGAIN.

THE STONE WALL WAS JUST BARELY HIGH ENOUGH TO AVOID SITTING ON THE GROUND, BUT IT WAS SOMETHING. RESTED AGAIN WE PULLED OURSELVES OFF THE WALL AND BEGAN THE TREK ONCE MORE, ONLY TO ACCOMPLISH ANOTHER COUPLE HUNDRED FEET. SEVERAL MORE ATTEMPTS AND SEVERAL MORE REST TIMES WERE REQUIRED BEFORE REACHING THE GATE.

THE IMMEDIATE GOAL WAS TO GET A COKE NO MATTER WHAT THE COST. I WAS IN NO MOOD TO HAGGLE AND ANY REASONABLE PRICE WAS FINE WITH ME. GEORGIA FOUND TWO EXCEPTIONALLY COLD CANS AND WE HEADED TO THE VENDOR. $3.00 WAS THE ASKING PRICE. WAS THAT EACH OR TOTAL, I ASKED. EACH WAS THE REPLY...BUT YOU BUY TWO, I GIVE FOR $5.00, OK.

IT’S A DEAL. WE WALKED A FEW FEET AND SAT ON THE STAIRS LEADING TO THE PARKING LOT. COCA COLA WAS THE ONLY THING IN ENGLISH ON THE CAN. FOR ALL I KNOW I COULD HAVE BEEN A WINNER FOR A TRIP TO MECCA. BUT ALL WE CARED ABOUT WAS THAT IT WAS COLD, WET AND IT WAS A COKE.

I CONVINCED GEORGIA TO HEAD FOR THE BUS AND NOT THE RESTAURANT. WE HAD FORTY MINUTES TO WAIT BUT IT WAS OH SO WORTH IT. THINGS WERE LOOK’N GOOD.

OUR GUIDE MENTIONED THE POSSIBILITY OF PASSING A BEDOUIN CAMP ON THE WAY BACK TO THE SHIP. WITH A LITTLE COAXING HE HAD THE DRIVER STOP SO WE COULD TAKE PICTURES. WITH OUR NEED TO HAVE PICTURES OF CLOTH TENTS IN THE MIDDLE OF A JORDANIAN MEADOW SATISFIED, WE HOPPED BACK ON THE BUS FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE TRIP

WE WERE BACK ON THE SHIP BEFORE 6:00 AND A GOOD TIME WAS HAD BY ALL. AS WE STOOD IN LINE TO GET ON THE SHIP THE CREW HAD LEMONADE AND COLD CLOTHES WAITING FOR US.

DAY 100 - SHARM EL SHEIK, EGYPT - MAY 7, 2010

WE SLEPT THROUGH THE PORT ARRIVAL ANNOUNCEMENT. NO TOUR WAS SCHEDULE FOR US TODAY. YESTERDAYS HEAT WAS ANOTHER KILLER AND WE DIDN’T THINK WE COULD DO THREE OF THESE TYPE TOURS IN THREE CONSECUTIVE DAYS.

WE DID MANAGE TO GET IN TWO PLUS MILES ON THE TREADMILL, BOTH OF US, AND THEN TO THE POOL. WE WERE SURPRISED AS TO THE NUMBER OF PASSENGERS THAT STAYED ON THE SHIP TODAY. MANY GAVE THE SAME REASON...THREE TOURS, THREE DAYS AND 100+ HEAT.

THIS EVENING WE HAD A VERY GOOD ENTERTAINER. A SCOTSMAN WHO PLAYED PIANO AND SANG. ONE OF HIS HEROS IS JERRY LEE LEWIS. KNOWING THAT LEWIS WAS HIS HERO WOULD MAKE YOU THINK HE MIGHT BE ONE DIMENSIONAL, BUT FAR FROM IT. HE ENDED HIS SHOW WITH THE INFAMOUS GREAT BALLS OF FIRE.

WE ARE CURRENTLY SITTING ON THE 9TH DECK TYPING THE BLOG.

THE SHORE TO OUR RIGHT IS LIT UP LIKE A CHRISTMAS TREE. IT CAN’T BE MORE THAN 500 YARDS AWAY. IT IS THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SHARM EL SHEIK PENINSULA. WE ARE ONLY 124 MILE FROM AQABA BUT WE ARE GOING SO SLOW WE DON’T DOCK UNTIL 7:00.

ALTHOUGH WE CAME REAL CLOSE TO CANCELING OUR PETRA TOUR, BECAUSE OF THE PENDING HEAT, HOWEVER WE ARE CURRENTLY STANDING TOUGH AND WILL BE READY IN THE MORNING.

DAY 99 - SAFARA, EGYPT - MAY 6, 2010

TODAY HAD JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING YOU LEARNED IN HISTORY AND YOU NEVER, EVERY EXPECTED TO SEE IN YOUR WHOLE LIFE. THE BUS RIDE WAS THREE AND HALF HOURS LONG...ONE WAY. OUR DESTINATION WAS LUXOR. OUR TOUR TODAY, THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS AND KARNAK TEMPLE.

A THREE PLUS HOUR BUS RIDE IS AS EXCITING AS WATCHING RAIN ROLL DOWN A ROPE, EXCEPT WHEN IN EGYPT. WE MADE IT OUT OF THE PORT EASILY ENOUGH. ALL FOURTEEN BUSES TRAVELING IN AN ARMED ESCORTED CONVOY. NOW DOESN’T THAT MAKE YOU FEEL REAL SECURE!

WE WERE IN BUS THREE AND WE HAD A GOOD VIEW OF THE BUSES BEHIND AND THE TWO IN FRONT OF US AS WE ENTERED THE CURVES. THE HIGHWAY WAS NOT FAR FROM THE PORT ENTRANCE AND ALL SEEM WELL UNTIL WE PULLED OFF AT THE FIRST EXIT. WE TRAVELLED ONLY A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE EXIT RAMP WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN BUS ONE BEGAN TO MAKE A “U” TURN AROUND THE MEDIAL STRIP. MY FIRST THOUGHT WAS THEY DIDN’T KNOW WHERE WE WERE GOING, BUT AS WE MOVE UNDER THE HIGHWAY WE HAD JUST COME FROM I REALIZED EGYPT MUST NOT BE BIG INTO CLOVERLEAFS. THE HIGHWAY HAD ONE EXIT IN EACH DIRECTION AND THE RAMP LED YOU STRAIGHT ON TO THE NEW ROAD. THERE WERE NO TRAFFIC LIGHTS AT THE END OF THE RAMP, NO OPTIONS TO TURN LEFT OF RIGHT, AND YOU WENT WHERE THE ROAD LED, EVEN IF THAT WASN’T THE DIRECTION IN WHICH YOU WERE HEADED.

LESS THAN A MILE LATER WE STOP AGAIN...A TOLL ROAD PERHAPS AND THEN AGAIN, MAYBE NOT. THERE WAS A SMALL SHED, SEVERAL BUILDINGS, AND MORE THAN ENOUGH SOLDIERS TO HOLD OFF A BAND OF THIEVES. THE ROADWAY WAS FILLED WITH THE BARRICADES SO OFTEN SEEN ENTERING MOST AIRPORTS. THE BARRICADES WERE ONLY MADE OF METAL TUBING, WERE LESS OFFENSIVE AND WERE A NUISANCE FOR THE BUS DRIVERS AS HE WEAVED AROUND THEM.

IT WAS NOT MORE THAN FIVE MILES LATER WHEN THE BUS BEGAN TO SLOW DOWN. IT WAS ANOTHER CHECKPOINT, MORE BARRICADES, MORE SOLDIERS BUT A MUCH LARGER BUILDING WITH A HIGH STONE WALL PROVIDING ADDITIONAL PROTECTION. EACH SIDE OF THE ROAD HAD SMALL ONE PERSON OBSERVATION POST WITH ARMED SOLDIERS. WE WERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DESERT, NOTHING BUT SAND, MOUNTAINS AND AND OCCASIONAL GREEN BUSH FOR MILES ON EITHER SIDE. I KNOW WHAT I AM ABOUT TO EXPRESS MIGHT SOUND LIKE A SLIGHT FABRICATION, BUT THIS HAPPENED EVERY FIVE TO EIGHT MILES FOR THE FIRST HOUR AND A HALF. I WONDER WHO THEY WERE EXPECTING?

NINETY MINUTES INTO THE TRIP AND THE SANDY SURROUNDINGS BEGAN SHOWING SIGNS OF LIFE. GREEN BUSHES AND HUTS AND IN THE WINK OF AN EYE, A CITY CALLED KENAR. PAVED STREETS FILLED, AUTOS, TRUCKS, DONKEY CARTS AND MOTORBIKES, ALL CREATING NEW CHALLENGES FOR OUR DRIVERS. AN IRRIGATION CHANNEL, FED BY THE NILE, SEPARATED THE HIGHWAY AND THE COMMUNITIES AND LARGE GREEN FERTILE FIELDS SEPARATED THE COMMUNITIES. A SMALL OVERCROWDED BRIDGE CONNECTED THE HIGHWAY AND THE COMMUNITIES. AS WE APPROACHED EACH OF THE ENTRANCES THE MAIN HIGHWAY WAS FILLED WITH BARRICADES. FORTUNATELY THERE WERE NO CHECKPOINTS TO NAVIGATE BUT EACH HAD ARMED PATROLS.

THE HOMES ALONG THE CHANNEL WERE MADE OF CONCRETE BLOCK, EXTREMELY UNCLEAN AND ALMOST ALL OF THEM HAD DONKEYS AND OR WATER BUFFALO MILLING ABOUT. VERY FEW DID NOT, I REPEAT, DID NOT HAVE AT LEAST ONE SATELLITE ON THE ROOF.

ADDITIONALLY, EVERY HOME IS IN SOME FORM OF UNFINISHED CONSTRUCTION. ALL LOOK AS THOUGH THEY WILL HAVE MORE FLOORS ADDED AS PILLARS EXTEND ABOVE THE CURRENT LIVING QUARTERS. AS IT TURNS OUT THIS IS DONE AS A MEANS IN AVOIDING TAXES ON THE PROPERTY. THE GOVERNMENT, FEDERAL, STATE OR LOCAL, DOES NOT COLLECT PROPERTY TAXES UNTIL THE STRUCTURE IS COMPLETE...NOBODY EVER FINISHES THE BUILDING OF THEIR HOMES.

THE VIEW OF GREEN FIELDS AND VILLAGES SEEMED TO PASS QUICKLY BUT IN FACT ANOTHER NINETY MINUTES OF DRIVING HAD TAKEN PLACE. THOSE FIELDS TURNED TO A SMALL SEMI-MODERN CITY. AS WE NAVIGATED THE NARROW STREETS WE PASSED SEVERAL ANCIENT STATUES AND COLUMNS. THE PARKING LOT TO THE KARNAK TEMPLE WAS BIG AND FORTUNATELY OUR BUS DRIVER LET US OFF CLOSE TO THE DOOR. THE THREE PLUS HOURS OF DRIVING DID NOTHING BUT FILL THE KIDNEYS. MOST OF THE GROUP MADE A BEELINE TO THE TOILETS, AKA THE W-C, OR WATER CLOSET.

FIFTEEN MINUTES LATER OUR GUIDE HAD HIS GROUP REASSEMBLED AND GAVE US SOME HISTORY AS WE STOOD IN THE VISITOR CENTER. LIKE GOOD LITTLE SOLDIERS WE FOLLOWED HIM TO THE ENTRANCE TO THE RUINS FOR ANOTHER BRIEF LECTURE BEFORE HEADING INTO THE SITE ON OUR OWN. IN A WORD, FABULOUS. THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE, AVENUE OF THE SPHINXES, BEGAN WITH THE SCULPTURES OF SEVERAL DOZEN LIONS AND RAMS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CORRIDOR. THERE ARE A TOTAL OF 134 LARGE CIRCULAR STONE PILLARS IN THE HYPOSTYLE HALL, AT LEAST SIXTY FEET HIGH, ON EACH SIDE AND ALL HAVE CARVINGS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. THEY EACH TELL STORIES OF THE TIMES, SOME VERY ELABORATE OTHER SIMPLE IN NATURE, BUT NONE LACK FOR DETAIL. IT IS AMAZING HOW WELL PRESERVED THESE ANCIENT RELICS ARE.

AT THE TOP LARGE MASSIVE STONES ARE USED TO CONNECT PILLARS. EACH OF THE UNDER SIDES OF THE CONNECTING STONES HAVE CARVINGS AND EACH HAS AN ADDED DIMENSION AS THEY ARE PAINTED. AGAIN, ONE WONDERS HOW THEY STAYED SO WELL PRESERVED. GEORGIA AND I BRANCHED OFF THROUGH ONE OF THE ARCHWAYS AND FOUND MORE GLORIOUS ARTIFACTS IN VARIOUS COURTYARD ENVIRONMENTS. EACH COURTYARD HAD A NAME ASSOCIATED WITH IT AND A INFORMATIVE SIGN DETAILING THE WHYS AND WHEREFORES OF ITS HISTORY.

ALTHOUGH WE PROBABLY SAW MOST OF THE TEMPLE TIME PASSED TO QUICKLY AND OUR MEETING TIME WAS BECKONING. AS WE WALKED BACK TO THE VISITOR CENTER, THE LARGE OPEN COURT WAS TEAMING WITH VENDORS TRYING TO HUSTLE YOU FOR A BUCK OR TEN. POSTCARDS, BOOKS, CARVINGS, YOU NAME IT AND FOR THE RIGHT PRICE IT WAS YOURS.

AS WE HEADED TO THE PARKING LOT GEORGIA MADE ONE LAST STOP AT THE W-C. I KNOW THIS FALLS UNDER THE CATEGORY OF “DO WE REALLY HAVE TO KNOW THIS” BUT ITS THE STORY THAT COUNTS. SOMEONE IS ALWAYS TRYING TO MAKE A BUCK AND SOME SHYSTER ENTREPRENEUR YOUNG PUNK IS WAITING IN THE LADIES ROOM TRYING TO GET A BUCK FOR USING THE FACILITIES. GEORGIA IGNORED HIM ON THE WAY IN BUT AS SHE WAS EXITING THIS YOUNG JERK WAS STOPPING ANOTHER WOMAN FROM ENTERING BECAUSE SHE WOULDN’R COUGH UP THE NECESSARY MONEY. WHEN GEORGIA DUCKED UNDER HIS ARM AND HEADED TO THE DOOR A FACE TO FACE CONFRONTATION TOOK PLACE. NEEDLESS TO SAY, THERE WAS NO MONEY EXCHANGED AND THE JERK IS STILL ALIVE.

EVERYONE MADE IT TO THE BUS AND WE WERE OFF TO THE ST. GEORGE HOTEL FOR SUMPTUOUS LUNCH. THE VARIETY OF ITEMS WAS OVERWHELMING BUT NONE OF THE FOOD WAS HOT. MANY OF THE DISHES COULD OF HAD THE POTENTIAL TO BE VERY TASTY, BUT.

AS GEORGIA AND I EXITED THE HOTEL WE TURNED TO THE LEFT AND HEADED FOR OUR BUS, HOWEVER THE BUS MOVED WHILE WE WERE EATING AND INSTEAD OF BEING LAST IN LINE IT WAS NOW FIRST. WE ASKED SOME GUY WHO LOOKED LIKE HE KNEW WHAT WAS GOING ON AND HE INFORMED US THEY WERE WAITING FOR US UP FRONT. WE WERE HOLDING UP THE PRECESSION.

COMFORTABLY IN OUR SEATS WE STARTED OUT FOR THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS. SEVERAL BLOCKS FROM THE ST. GEORGE WE PASSED THE LUXOR TEMPLE RUINS, WHICH WAS ANOTHER CHOICE IN THE TOUR LIST, AND WE IMMEDIATELY KNEW THE KARNAK TEMPLE WAS THE BETTER CHOICE OF TOURS.

WITHIN THIRTY MINUTES WE ENTERED TO VALLEY OF THE KINGS PARKING AREA. DOZENS OF BUSES, AND HUNDRED PEOPLE HEADED TOWARD THE VISITOR CENTER. NO CAMERAS WERE PERMITTED BEYOND THE CENTER. HOWEVER THE ENTRANCE AND SURROUNDING HILLSIDES PRESENTED SEVERAL GREAT PHOTO OPTS. OUR GUIDE HAD US GET OFF, TAKE PICTURES AND RETURN OUR CAMERAS TO THE SAFE CONFINES OF THE BUS. ALTHOUGH THE DISTANCE FROM THE BUS TO THE CENTER WAS SHORT WE WERE ABLE TO TELL THE TEMPERATURE HAD RISEN DRAMATICALLY. MY BODY WAS NOT REACTING WELL TO THE HEAT.

ANOTHER SHORT TALK BY THE GUIDE AND WE MADE OUR WAY TO THE WAITING TRAMS THAT WOULD TAKE US TO THE GATED ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB AREA. WE RECEIVED OUR TICKET, MARCHED THROUGH THE GATE AND ONCE REASSEMBLED AS A GROUP WE HEADED UP THE HILL TO THE TOMB OF RAMSES III. OUR GUIDE MADE A FEW STOPS TO FILL US IN ON VARIOUS FACTS BEFORE EVENTUALLY HEADING DOWN THE STEPS AND INTO THE TOMB.

THE HEAT WAS TAKING ITS TOLL AND GEORGIA AND I FELT THE TOMB WOULD PROVIDE SOME NEEDED SHADE AND COOLER AIR TO REFRESH OUR BODYS. SHADE WE HAD, HEAT BUT NO SUN WAS ALL WE COULD ATTAIN FROM THE UNDERGROUND TOMB.

HEAT ASIDE THE TOMB WAS SOMETHING TO SEE, AND TAKE YOUR MIND OFF THE HEAT. THE WALLS WERE LINED WITH CARVINGS, SOME PAINTED, ALL TELLING A STORY OF THE BELOVED KING. THE TOMB NO LONGER CONTAINS THE SARCOPHAGUS (COFFIN). SARCOPHAGUS OR NOT, THE PLACE WAS EXTREMELY INTERESTING.

AS GEORGIA AND I EXITED THE TOMB SWORMS OF LITTLE KIDS TRYING TO SELL POSTCARDS AND BOOKS APPROACHED US. WE GOT TWENTY CARDS FOR A BUCK. HE STARTED AT FIVE BUCKS. ANOTHER YOUNG BOY PEDDLING BOOKS OF THE TOMBS WANTED FIFTEEN BUCKS FOR THE TWO BOOK SET. WE SAID NO. HE WANTED TO KNOW HOW MUCH WE WERE WILLING TO PAY. HE FOLLOWED US DOWN THE HILL. WE DIDN’T BUY ANYTHING.
GEORGIA AND I DETERMINED RETURNING TO THE BUS WAS THE WISEST CHOICE TO MAKE AT THIS POINT. WE STILL HAD OVER FORTY MINUTES BEFORE WE WERE TO MEET. OUR BODIES WERE STARTING TO FADE. AGAIN WE MADE THE CORRECT CHOICE, BY THE TIME EVERYONE ELSE RETURNED, OUR BODIES WERE BEGINNING TO COOL DOWN. OTHERS WISHED THEY HAD RETURNED INSTEAD OF GOING ON TO OTHER TOMBS.

OUR LAST STOP BEFORE HEADING BACK TO THE SHIP WAS THE TOMBS OF THE QUEENS, SPECIFICALLY QUEEN HATSHEPSUT. TIME DIDN’T ALLOW FOR TOURS ETC., BUT WE DID HAVE TIME TO EXIT THE BUS FOR PICTURES. FIFTEEN MINUTES LATER WE WERE ON THE ROAD FOR THE RETURN TRIP TO SAFAGA.

ALTHOUGH TIRED I MANAGED TO STAY AWAKE DURING THE TRAVEL THROUGH THE VILLAGES AND COMMUNITIES ALONG THE IRRIGATION CHANNEL. IT WAS AROUND 6:00 WHEN WE DROVE THROUGH AND THE FIELDS WERE INUNDATED WITH PEOPLE HARVESTING THEIR CROPS. EACH OF THE LARGE FIELDS WERE SUB-DIVIDED INTO SMALLER SECTIONS AND EACH OF THE SMALLER SECTIONS WERE BEING WORKED. PEOPLE EVERYWHERE, DONKEY CARTS COMING AND GOING AND AN OCCASIONAL STRAY DONKEY MUNCHING ON THE ALREADY HARVESTED FIELDS.

WE TRAVELED THROUGH THIS PORTION OF FARM AREA FOR AT LEAST SIXTY MINUTES AND THE SAME PROCESS WAS OCCURRING. NO MECHANICAL TOOLS WERE BEING USED, ONLY MANUAL LABOR. I SUPPOSE MODERN EQUIPMENT WOULD ACTUALLY DEVASTATE THE COUNTRY. THE LACK OF SUCH EQUIPMENT KEEPS TENS OF THOUSANDS WORKING, IF ONLY FOR A MEAGER WAGE.

BEFORE LEAVING THE VALLEY WE ASK THE DRIVER ABOUT THE ACCURACY OF THE TEMPERATURE INDICATOR ON THE BUS. THE GAGE SHOW THE TEMP AT 42 CELSIUS, THAT WOULD BE ROUGHLY 105 FAHRENHEIT. BY THE TIME WE HIT THE DESERT THE INDICATOR WAS AT 15 CELSIUS, OR 65 FAHRENHEIT.

OUR DAY WAS OVER BUT THE MEMORIES WILL LINGER FOREVER. FEW LIGHTS COULD BE SEEN IN THE PORT EXCEPT NEAR OUR SHIP. THE SUN HAD SET BUT AS ALWAYS WE STILL HAD ENOUGH ENERGY TO HIT THE BUFFET.

DAY 96 - AT SEA - MAY 3, 2010

BREAKFAST AND PORT TALK ON SHARM EL SHEIK. THE REST OF THE DAY WAS RELAXING.

DAY 97 - AT SEA - MAY 4, 2010

PORT TALK ON PETRA. NOTHING SPECIAL.

DAY 98 - AT SEA - MAY 5, 2010

SLEPT IN AND WENT STRAIGHT TO LUNCH. TODAY WAS A MEXICAN THEME.

DAY 94 - AT SEA - MAY 1, 2010

IT WAS ANOTHER HOT LAZY DAY AT SEA. THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY WAS A GET TOGETHER WITH ESTELLE HARRIS IN THE LOUNGE. YOU ASK, WHO IS ESTELLE HARRIS. I WOULD HINT BY SAYING, GEORGE COSTANZA’S MOTHER. ADDITIONAL HINTS WOULD INCLUDE THE NAME JASON ALEXANDER AND SIENFELD. NOW DO YOU KNOW ESTELLE HARRIS.

SHE IS VERY FUNNY, OUTGOING AND REAL. SHE WAS PART OF OUR GROUP ON THE ABOVE MENTIONED TOUR. SHE WAS ONE OF THE GANG. SHE IS A PITTSBURGHER OF SORTS. SHE WAS BORN AND GREW UP IN TARENTUM. NOW HOW BOUT THAT SPORTS FANS.

THERE WAS ALSO AN INFORMAL GATHERING OF PEOPLE DISCUSSING METHODS OF GETTING TEXT AND PICTURES TO BLOGS AND WEBSITE. GOOD CONVERSATION, I ACTUALLY FELT I HAD SOMETHING TO CONTRIBUTE.


DAY 95 - AT SEA - MAY 2, 2010

WE WERE ABLE TO MAKE IT TO THE PORT TALK ON SAFAGA, EGYPT AT 10:00 WITH MARTYN GREEN. HE DOES SUCH A GOOD JOB INFORMING US OF ALL THE THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN THE PORTS. HIS TALKS ARE NEVER DULL AND HE HAS GREAT PERSONAL PICTURES.

AFTER THE PORT TALK WE WENT TO THE SUNDAY BRUNCH. SUNDAY AND SEA DAYS EQUATE TO BRUNCH AND THAT STANDS FOR GREAT EATING. WE CHOOSE TO GO TO THE BRUNCH EARLIER THAN WE NORMALLY DO BECAUSE TONIGHT IS FORMAL NIGHT AND IF THERE IS ANY CHANCE OF ATTENDING WE MUST EAT EARLY.

DAY 93 - MUSCAT, OMAN - APRIL 30, 2010

ALTHOUGH WE WERE TO DOCK AT 8:00 THE PORT PILOT WAS NOT ABLE TO BOARD THE SHIP AS WE CAME CLOSE TO THE BAY AND THE DOCKING WAS DELAYED ALMOST FORTY-FIVE MINUTES. HUNDREDS OF PASSENGERS GOING ON TOURS WAITED IN THE LOUNGE FOR THE CLEARANCE TO GO ASHORE. THERE WERE SIX BUS LOADS ON OUR TOUR OF THE GRAND MOSQUE, MUSEUM, PALACE AND MARKET. WE WERE TIGHT ON TIME AS TODAY WAS FRIDAY AND THE SHOPS CLOSED AT NOON. FRIDAY’S ARE EQUIVALENT TO OUR SUNDAY AND THEY TAKE IT SERIOUS.

THE ORIGINAL PLAN CALLED FOR A TOUR OF THE MOSQUE BUT NOBODY IS PERMITTED IN THE MOSQUE ON FRIDAY. THEREFORE, WE WERE ONLY ABLE TO GET PICTURES BY WALKING AROUND THE GROUNDS. WE WERE LIMITED TO TWENTY MINUTES.

GEORGIA HAD ASK OUR GUIDE IF TOILETS WERE AVAILABLE AND HE INDICATED WHERE SHE WOULD FIND THEM. SHE WALKED THE LONG PATH TOWARD THE STEPS LEADING INTO THE MOSQUE. ON ONE SIDE OF THE ENTRANCE WAS THE “GENTS” TOILETS SO SHE WALKED TO THE OTHER SIDE...ONLY TO FIND ANOTHER “GENTS” TOILETS. AS A GENTLEMEN EXITED THE TOILETS SHE ASKED WHERE THE “LADIES” TOILETS WERE LOCATED, HE REPLIED “THERE ARE NONE.”

LATER IN THE DAY GEORGIA APPROACHED THE GUIDE AND MENTIONED TO HIM, IN AN INFORMATIVE WAY, THAT FOR FUTURE REFERENCE THERE ARE NO TOILETS FOR THE “LADIES”, ONLY THE “GENTS.” THE GUIDE IMMEDIATELY RESPONDED, “OF COURSE,” AND HE WALKED AWAY.

WE LEARNED FROM A VISITS TO OTHER MOSQUES THAT LOOKING AT THE TOP OF THE DOME ONE CAN TELL IF WOMEN ARE WELCOME TO WORSHIP. MEN AND WOMEN HAVE SEPARATE SECTIONS DEVOTED TO WORSHIP. IF WOMEN ARE WELCOME, THE DOME HAS A STAR INSIDE AN OPEN CIRCLE, WHICH REPRESENTS THE MOON. THIS DOME UNFORTUNATELY DIDN’T EVEN INDICATE THE NORMAL HALF MOON CRESCENT FOR MEN LET ALONE ANY INDICATION FOR WOMEN, BUT THE GUIDE KNEW, IT WAS A MEN ONLY MOSQUE.

HE MUST HAVE EXPRESSED HIS ARROGANT ATTITUDE TOWARD SEVERAL OF THE PASSENGERS, AS HE DID TOWARD GEORGIA, BECAUSE MOST PEOPLE DIDN’T GIVE HIM ANY MONEY AS THEY EXITED THE BUS AFTER THE TOUR. HE MIGHT HAVE THOUGHT HE PUT ONE OVER ON THE “WESTERN” WOMEN, BUT HE PAID FOR IT IN THE END...NO TIP.

THE MOSQUE SEATS 20,000 PEOPLE, MEN, AND IS THE FIRST WE HAVE SEEN WITH FIVE MINARETS. THERE WAS ONE IN EACH CORNER AND ONE LARGE, TALLER MINARET IN THE CENTER FRONT. OUR GUIDE CLAIMED EACH OF THE MINARETS DESIGNATED SOMETHING IN THE MUSLIM RELIGION. HE RATTLED OFF THE MEANINGS BUT I ONLY CAUGHT THREE OF THEM. THEY ARE, THE CALL TO PRAY, TRIP TO MECCA, AND THE CELEBRATION OF RAMADAN.

ADDITIONALLY, MUSCAT IS THE FIRST PLACE WE HAVE SEEN BLUE DOMES ON MOSQUES. THE BLUE ARE SHIA MOSQUES AND THE GOLD ARE SUNNI. THUS ENDS THE LESSON ON ISLAM.

THE TOUR WAS ALTERED SO WE COULD HAVE THE ADDED ENJOYMENT OF GOING TO THE MARKET, KNOWN AS THE SOUQ (SEWK). IT IS TRULY A FASCINATING ENVIRONMENT, SHOP AFTER SHOP, JEWELRY, INCENSE, TEXTILE, AND SHOES TO NAME A FEW. NARROW WALKWAYS HARDLY WIDE ENOUGH FOR ONE PERSON WAS PACKED LIKE A SARDINE CAN AT TIMES. THE MEN WERE DRESSED IN LONG WHITE ROBES AND THE WOMEN IN BLACK, SOME WITH FACES COVERED OTHERS NOT. ALL TRYING TO COMPLETE THEIR SHOPPING BEFORE THE NOON CLOSING.

UNFORTUNATELY, STOPPING TO LOOK AT ANYTHING CAUSES AN ENDLESS HASSLE TO MAKE A SALE, OF ANYTHING, BY THE SHOP OWNER. ON THE OTHER HAND YOU TRY TO FIND AN OPENING TO EXIT FROM THE SITUATION AS FAST AS POSSIBLE.

SIXTY MINUTES LATER WE EXITED THE MASS OF SHOPS TO SEE DAYLIGHT AGAIN. THE ELECTRONIC CLOCK INDICATED IT WAS 10:59 AND A FEW SECONDS LATER THE NUMBER CHANGED TO 46, WITH A LITTLE ZERO IN THE TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER. BEFORE I COULD DO THE QUICK CALCULATION IN MY HEAD THE NUMBER CHANGED TO 117, WITH THE SAME LITTLE ZERO IN THE RIGHT CORNER. IT WAS THE TEMPERATURE AND SEEING IT POSTED IN FRONT OF US MADE IT EVEN HOTTER. COULD WE SURVIVE YET ANOTHER COUPLE OF HOURS.

ALTHOUGH THE BUS WAS NOT FREEZING IT CERTAINLY WAS COOLER THAN OUTSIDE AND IT WAS SOME RELIEF. WE DROVE AWAY FROM THE TOWN ALONG THE WATER FRONT AND HEADED UP A LONG NARROW ROAD FOR A WONDERFUL VIEW OF THE OLD CITY OF MUSCAT. ALTHOUGH WE CAPTURED IT ON FILM THE VIEW WAS OBSTRUCTED BY CABLES AND ELECTRICAL WIRES, BUT IT WAS MEMORABLE. WE DESCENDED THE HILL INTO THE TOWN AND INTO THE PARKING LOT NEXT TO THE BAIT AL ZABAIR MUSEUM.

HERE IS WHERE I THINK THE GUIDE LOST ALL HIS TIPS. KNOWING THAT NONE OF THE WOMEN WERE ABLE TO USE A TOILET AT THE MOSQUE, AND THE PUBLIC TOILETS AT THE MARKET WERE UNSUITABLE, HE BEGAN OUR MUSEUM TOUR BY ASKING THE GROUP IF THEY WANTED TO USE THE TOILETS FIRST OR LISTEN TO HIS SHORT TALK. THE OVERWHELMING RESPONSE WAS TO USE THE TOILETS, PARTICULARLY THE WOMEN. HE INDICATED THAT WAS FINE AND STARTED RIGHT INTO HIS SPEACH. NEEDLESS TO SAY, THE WOMEN WALKED AWAY AND HE LOST HIS TIP.

ALTHOUGH THE MUSEUM WAS INTERESTING, IT CONTAINED NUMEROUS ITEMS OF KNIVES, GUNS AND SWORDS FROM DAYS LONG AGO. TRADITIONAL DRESS WAS ALSO EXHIBITED, MOSTLY WOMENS CLOTHING, ALONG WITH A VERY FEW ITEMS OF FURNITURE. ALL IN ALL, NOT MUCH TO WRITE HOME ABOUT. THEREFORE WE SHALL CONTINUE TO THE NEXT STOP.

A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE MUSEUM WAS THE SULTAN’S PALACE. THE LONG PUBLIC CORRIDOR LEADING TO THE PALACE GATES LEFT NO DOUBT A LOT OF MONEY HAD BEEN SPENT TO INDICATE THIS WAS NO ORDINARY RUN OF THE MUCK PALACE. ALTHOUGH OPEN THROUGH THE CENTER EACH SIDE FEATURED COVERED WHITE MARBLE ARCHED WALK WAYS. THEY WERE VERY IMPRESSIVE.

THE WALK WAYS EXITED BACK TO THE OPEN AIR CORRIDOR AND A LARGE PLAZA. A MOSQUE TO THE LEFT AND THE REMAINS OF THE OLD PORTUGUESE FORTS TO THE RIGHT AND UPPER LEFT CORNERS. TWO HUGE BLACK ROD-IRON GATES, WITH GOLD EMBLEMS, KEPT THE COMMONERS FROM GETTING TO CLOSE. THE BUILDING WAS BLUE AND GOLD BUT THE STRUCTURES NEXT TO THE PALACE WHERE A BRIGHT WHITE.

IT WAS JUST ABOUT NOON AS WE STARTED BACK TO THE BUS WHEN THE CALL TO WORSHIP CHANT BEGAN TO BURST THROUGH THE SPEAKERS OF THE MOSQUE. BESIDES BEING VERY IRRITATING TO THE EARS, IT WAS DEAFENING. I JUST CAN’T IMAGINE PUTTING UP WITH THAT FIVE TIMES A DAY. THE NOISE HASTENED OUR RETURN TO THE BUS AND EVENTUALY TO THE SHIP.

ALTHOUGH WE HAVE VISITED SEVERAL MUSLIM COUNTRIES OVER THE LAST THREE WEEKS, THERE WAS A STARK DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DUBAI AND MUSCAT. DUBAI STRUGGLES WITH MOVING INTO THE TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY WHILE MUSCAT STAYS COMFORTABLY IN A STAUNCH TRADITIONAL LIFESTYLE. IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE IF EITHER CAN SURVIVE THE TEST OF TIME.